In the middle of routing some circle templates for wagon wheels, my Porter Cable, model # 6931 , would not start. Dead. Kaput. Nada. I blew out every orifice with compressed air, checked the brushes, which seem fine. Wound up going to the Orange Borg for a new router (this is a paying job) which fit in the plunge base and completed the job. Anyone had any experience with these things going belly up? It would be nice to get the old one running so I could leave it mounted in the router table. Thanks for any info.
Dennis
Replies
Oat, since there was no smoke or that familiar burning wires smell and you have used the new router from the same power point, and you say the brushes look alright (they must be in contact with the commutator at least)I would suspect the router switch, if you are sure that current is actually arriving at that switch. These switches have a tough job to do and are prone to dust anyway.If you have not got the means to test the switch then clean it as much as possible and check the terminal connections.If that doesn't do it you may have to visit a higher authority.
Philip: Thanks for your input. Some sawdust has worked its way into the flexible plastic switch cover but it looks like I will have to take the top of the router off to access the switch. Have you ever attempted this?
Oat,
"Some sawdust has worked its way into the flexible plastic switch cover but it looks like I will have to take the top of the router off to access the switch. Have you ever attempted this?"
I have had my routers in pieces many times-for bearings and cord replacement as well as dust/switch problems. However these have been Elu and the old Black and Decker DW type so cannot be specific to yours other to advise that you exercise patience and note carefully how things are positioned- there is not a lot of room so often wires etc have to be carefully placed. If it has to basically dismantled in order to access that switch then it becomes a bit more complicated because of the bearings and brushes.It is in fact quite simple but until you have done it it may look quite daunting. Remember that screws going into plastic are easily cross-threaded, so be sure to start them in their original thread when replacing.
Hope that helps.Philip Marcou
Philip: I took the top off and it was a fairly simple matter to disconnect and remove the switch. I tested it with an ohmeter and it was ok. Blew out the dust, reassembled and voila! I now have a dedicated router for the table and one for the plunge attachment. Can't have too many routers. Thanks for your help.
Dennis
I agree with Phillip on the switch as a source of problems. But, I would also check to see if the power cord has a break in it.
Frosty
J: Power cord looks good. I'm focusing on the switch. Thanks.
Dennis
Every time a switch is closed, the inrush of current has a tendency to arc across the contacts before they close completely. Eventually, a deposit that the current cannot cross will build up on the contacts and that prevents the load from receiving power. If the switch housing is not entirely sealed, contact cleaner can be sprayed into the switch and will break down the deposit layer with a little physical help from flipping the switch back and forth numerous times. The alternative is to replace the switch.
Managed to get the switch cleaned out and she works fine now. I have a feeling I will be replacing the switch eventually. Thanks for your expertise.
Dennis
Twice in the last two weeks I have had problems with tools not starting. Checked the switches and brushes. Both problems turned out to be overheated connectors that connect the wire from the brush to the windings. Both were spade connectors and were surprisingly small. One was on a Bosch ROS and the other a no-name circular saw. The heat corrodes the connection and make the metal lose it's temper. After carefully cleaning the connectors I soldered them together since with no temper left in the metal I wasn't confident it would maintain good contact. May be your problem
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