Radial Arm Saw start issues
Recently added 2 radial arms saw to my original (3 total)
The original is
My craftsman 2 “new” radial arm saws start fine when no blade is on chuck (or anything else like guard)
However, when I put a blade on, it turns off after trying to reach fill speed. This happens on both with multiple blades
For context. I have them plugged in to a garage door opener outlet that has its own circuit breaker. This is not a problem with my original saw.
Also they seemed to work fine in brief power up test before I took them home from where I purchased them.
The motors are popping breaker when blade is on 2 saw additions.
Again this doesn’t happen when blade is off, on my original radial arm saw model, and I’ve experimented with various blades. Somehow the blade itself is causing the motor to trip the breaker and I don’t know how to solve issue
I have been trying to go through the process of refurbish and seeing if I can solve it myself. I accidentally took out those two hatchet shaped retainer screws in motor, because I was over tired and not paying attention, and have no idea how I’m going to get them back in at this point 😡
Pic uploaded when possible
Compare the motor specs on the 3 saws so it is apples-to-apples. There is more resistance when starting a blade than just spinning the arbor at no load. You could be right on the edge of that garage door breaker's weight class.
A good cleaning and blow out wouldn't hurt. Caked on crap can also put up a fight.
The spec show that you newer saws will draw 10% more amperage. That may be enough to trip a 15 amp breaker if there are other loads on the same circuit. Try pluging it in a different outlet see if it trips, your current outlet may also serve lighting and be overloaded with the saw.
Way back, my 1979-ish Craftsman RAS worked fine until I moved it to a different outlet. Both 15 amp. It started doing the same thing as yours on the new outlet. I finally just ran a new line and switched the motor to 240. Never had another issue.
Thanks folks so far.
I figured since they were newer saws they might be pulling more power.
The garage door opener has a light and I think it's just n same line as other outsells.
I'm going to try using a different outlet by running cord tomorrow. I'll let you know.
Any ideas of getting the to hatchet shaped retaining screws back inside motor casing without taking it apart. Never done that on a RAS and it scares me a bit.
Would you folks suggest I set up a 240v outlet on an extension cord?
I'm not sure ATM if I can run an actual outlet until I confirm with property owner
What is the amperage for the receptacle your using? 15 AMP is usually for lighting circuits and will likely trip on a power tool under load. I wired into a light switch in my shop because it was easy and I wanted a receptacle there. If I use it for anything more powerful than an electric drill it is very likely to trip the breaker.. A 110 20 Amp circuit could solve your problem. Any of those in your breaker box? If you have a circuit that is 20 amps find a receptacle on that circuit and try it. Is this a home? You probably have a 220 voltage receptacle somewhere if you decide to go that route. You don't necessarily need to create it, it likely already exists. You just need to figure out how to borrow it! Laundry , kitchen range, water heater, base board heat etc.. You could rewire your motor for 220 and plug into any 220 receptacle that you find with what ever type of plug that is in use on say maybe a dryer receptacle. H20 will probably be hardwired. I had a set up for on the road ...a set of spring clips that I could go into a breaker box and just clip on to create my own 220 line when I needed one and none was available. (Turn off the main before rooting around in there) Your RAS should run on 110 with adequate amperage. Also sometimes breakers get old and fussy, sometimes they are just lemons. It could be something else of course...like the motor. I picked up a jointer, it ran fine, got it adjusted up and was using it for a couple of weeks. I have a rubber floor in my shop and one day I moved the jointer next to my table saw. The jointer body was touching the table saw at one point and when I turned the jointer on it began to weld itself to the tablesaw top! Actually weld! On testing it everything was hot, the jointer, the motor casing, the pulley. Because of the rubber floor it couldn't find ground and didn't bite me when I was using it. I was standing on the same rubber floor. If I had somehow managed to get myself between it and something grounded it could have been bad! The tablesaw had enough mass to act as a ground. Some short in the motor , never did try to find out why - the motor repair guys charge more to fix a motor than it costs to buy a new motor so I just did that.
I tried the saws on a wall outlet and they started and worked fine. For now I'm running an extension cord until I get around to adding another outlet closer.
So plugging it into the garage door opener outlet was the problem as far as starting.
Anyone got tips on getting those 2 axe shaped retainer bolts back inside motor housing without disassembling?