STL180: Designing Without Drawing
Mike, Anissa, and Ben discuss design process, vibrant painted finishes, maintaining Japanese chisels, and their shop resolutions for 2019Question 1:
From Cameron:
I’m thinking of making a bench inspired by Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007. I’m want to stretch the width to 6’ to use at my 7’ table. Will the front and rear rails be enough to support 4 well fed adults or will I have a hilarious story to tell for the next 30 year about the thanksgiving collapse of 2019?
- Mark Edmundson’s “Modern Danish Cord Bench” from issue #194-Nov/Dec 2007 – http://bit.ly/2SyAeDa
- Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue – http://bit.ly/2PUMWut
Question 2:
From Mark:
I saw a video where Matt Wajda drew a tool chest, full scale by hand. Is this a common method? I draw Architecture for a living, I am tired of drawing. I’m not interested in SketchUp, I already spend way too much time with AutoCAD. Woodworking is my release. I completely understand that you can work issues out on paper long before you even touch a board. I am curious about designing without drawing. Does anyone you know use a design process that does not involve drawing?
- Behind the Design: Tim Coleman’s Arabesque by Tim Coleman and Ben Strano #270–Sep/Oct 2018 Issue – http://bit.ly/2SALeQe
- Mike’s post showing the 1/4-piece mirror trick – http://bit.ly/2RumlIO
Segment: Shop Resolutions
- Mike – Learn a new skill this year
- Anissa – Draw every day
- Ben – Finish working on his shop, and start working in his shop… by May
Question 3:
From Andy:
Any idea how to go about achieving the finish in the attached image? I’ve never seen a finish like this one that’s pretty vibrant, yet maintains the appearance of the grain. Is it just a watered down paint?
- Real Milk Paint’s Color Chart – https://www.realmilkpaint.com/help/resources/color-mixing/
- Old Fashioned Milk Paint’s Color Chart – http://www.milkpaint.com/color.html
Question 4:
From Bob:
I have some Japanese chisels that I’m starting to use. About 3/16” behind the edge of the blade is a cove. When you grind back to that cove, the back will no longer be flat. Do you have to toss the chisel out at that point?
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Comments
I haven't even finished listening to the whole episode, but Ben has already scored major points for his enthusiastic endorsement of the Blackwing 602. Who knew he had such good taste?
I hope you guys don't forget about asking Andrew about tapping out chisels.
Thanks for answering my question. That 1/4 model thing was exactly the kind of idea I was looking for. I enjoyed the discussion very much. Mark
Please post the picture related to Andy's question (#3).
Thanks for the great podcast.
A different Andy
I just finished reading David Savage's new book from Lost Art Press entitled The Intelligent Hand. This is a wonderful book for understanding the power of drawing and the abilities we all have in terms of design. Like Ben, I too think of myself as having relatively little talent in terms of design, but I now feel like I have a great model for how to develop my design skills over time.
It's also an absolutely incredible book in which David Savage shares a lifetime of wisdom regarding many, many aspects of woodworking.
https://lostartpress.com/products/the-intelligent-hand
Anissa -- Check out the Strathmore Art Journal with sketch paper. I use the 5.5 in x 8.5 in hardback -- it's got nice quality paper, with sewn in signatures, so the book will open up and lie fairly flat. Here's a link to Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Strathmore-Hardbound-Journal-Sketch-Sheets/dp/B000KNNVH6/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_0_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KNNVH6&pd_rd_r=fcc245af-9add-4b24-857f-014962ed8d5b&pd_rd_w=07kGl&pd_rd_wg=6arSP&pf_rd_p=2f64e549-0497-4586-8c63-7905e90fd6a2&pf_rd_r=M4X5DX4RK8XQ9F5WEBPQ&psc=1&refRID=M4X5DX4RK8XQ9F5WEBPQ
Martain, I'll check it out. Thanks for the tip! anissa
"Sanding" the surface of my leather with a 1000 grit waterstone did the trick! My green compound is going on nice and smooth now, with no flaking! Thanks for reading that comment!
At 6 feet, Cameron's stretched Danish cord bench might fit four backsides, but when dining each person needs a space at least 21 inches wide, with 24 inches much better so in practice a 6 foot bench will only accommodate three diners.
The primary areas of concern for me is the strength of the joint where the long rails met the legs. This joint might need beefing up with a heavier leg -- may be 1/2" extra in both width and thickness. As well as using dovetailed cross rails to stiffen the long rails, Cameron might increase their width and thickness by about 1/2".
Engineering wise, the original 38" long bench is "significantly over designed" so at 72" the interpretation only needs a little bit of strengthening.
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