STL 175: Stressful Panel Glue Ups
Tom, Mike, and Ben discuss panel clamps, plywood backs, Craig Thibodeau, Garrett Hack, and Ben's box of happiness!
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I am building a credenza that will be 84″ long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2″ or 3/4″), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail?
What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying? In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up.
- Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue
- How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue
Segment: All Time Favorite Tool
Ben: Sharpening stone box
Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he’s a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers
Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop
I am going to build Garrett Hack’s huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can’t be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I’ve thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces?
- The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue
- Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta
- How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue
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