STL 174: The power of the spring joint
Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben, in studio, to lay down the law on the spring joint, veneer glues, and box splines
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Leave a comment below to enter to win a copy of Peter Nicholson’s Mechanic’s Companion published by Rude Mechanicals Press! We’ll pick a winner October 12th, 2018. Special thanks to Megan Fitzpatrick for making this happen!
I have done a large number of glue ups in my day, and typically utilize my 8″ jointer to create a flat, 90-degree surface to insure a good joint for gluing and have never had any issues. I have seen and heard often about creating a spring joint to help with the glue up. My question is this. What is the value of creating the spring joint, and how to create it (i.e. how long, how far from the ends, etc.)? It’s a tricky leap of faith to take that perfect edge that you’ve created on a jointer and create a gap, so would like to understand the value of it.
I currently am making a large chest of drawers and am in the process of gluing up long and wide sections to make the case. To get the width I am gluing up 3 boards at 8″ each. The length is 7 feet long, so it is a pretty big glue up.
- An Edge-Jointing Primer – Well-tuned tools and the right technique create joints that last by Gary Rogowski #124–May/June 1997 Issue
- Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue
I am planning to build a desk out of walnut. The top is going to be approximately 2′ x 5′. I would like to use a double particle board core with veneer on all six sides. I do not have a vacuum bag, but have seen some articles where people used a contact adhesive to secure the veneer, similar to securing laminate. Is this a viable option? As much as I would love to have a vacuum bag, I cannot justify the expense. I do not want to make the top out of solid stock, but I am a little scared of veneering. Any tips or suggestions?
Segment: All Time Favorite Tool
Mike: His 17-in. Grizzly Bandsaw
Ben: A router mat, for sanding
Bob: Small bevel gauge made by Chris Vesper after a fake out to his #4 Stanley Smoothing plane
I recently made a box, using hidden splines, because I had heard they were strong. Sure enough, they seem kinda strong, but I’m wondering where that strength comes from? There’s no long grain to long grain join here – at best it’s a 45° short-grain to long grain – not hugely better that the two 45° surfaces on the miter itself… or is the one long grain surface enough to give it this extra strength? Or am I being dumb and missing something obvious?
- How to add splines for stronger miters – Quick jig produces clean joints with hidden power – by Doug Stowe #268–May/June 2018 Issue
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