Q:

I recently found a treasure trove of fresh-cut curly maple. It’s mostly 4/4 and 5/4, with some 6x8s that I will cut into 3x8s to encourage drying within my lifetime. Aside from painting the ends with shellac and stickering it, how should I go about drying it?

Stanley Jett, Warren, MI

A:

I air-dry a lot of wood and it isn’t difficult. The key is to get air moving through the pile, so all surfaces of the boards dry evenly. I don’t bother to paint the ends, since end checks will still happen and I’d rather know where these natural weaknesses are and cut around them later.

Build your pile in an airy location, either outside or in an open shed. Get the base well off the ground, so air can circulate around the bottom as well as the sides.

Place 1-in.-sq. stickers no more than 3 ft. to 4 ft. apart. Line these up vertically and over the main timbers of the base. (Offsetting them can dry a sag in the boards.) Put a sticker close to the end of each board, even if it means adding an extra one. Keep the ends of the stickers within the overhang of the covering so that they don’t catch rain and drip it into the pile. The best covering is old roofing tin or plywood acting as a roof to shed rain and/or snow. Don’t use plastic or any other cover that drapes down on the pile; it will cut off air circulation and lead to mold. Dry the wood at least a year per inch; 12 to 15 months or longer for your 4/4 and 5/4 stock, and at least three years for your 3x8s.

Check the wood often for any signs of bugs, such as tiny holes with fine sawdust surrounding them. If you do find holes, apply a liberal wash of paint thinner to them.

Drawing by Vince Babak

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