Replies

1. 
   miserybob | Nov 13, 2009 06:02pm | #1

   You could use a dye or a toner (or both).  Transtint dyes can be purchased at any of the big wwing stores or online at homesteadfinishingproducts.com.  Homestead has a few articles about using dyes (they manufacture Transtints).  It can be tricky to get the exact mix of water/dye to get the color you want, and the color is definitely affected by the finishing layer, so experiment on scraps first - from the sanding all the way to the final topcoat.

   You can check out the Fine WWing article on Toners here - https://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsPDF.aspx?id=2390.  Mohawk is the brand I've used, although not extensively.

   Make lots of test boards!

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 13, 2009 07:26pm | #2

   How did you prepare the surface of your test board? Did you sand it to the same grit as was done on the prior item?

   Was the prior item red oak or white oak?

   Did you thoroughly stir your finish?

   Have you applied the same number of coats?

   Howie.........
1. 
   BarryinVic | Nov 13, 2009 08:18pm | #3

   Thanks....I prepared my test piece from red oak finishing with 220 by hand. The Danish oil was well stired and two coats were used on both. The dresser may well be 80 years old and I do not know what or how many times it has been refinished. Nor do I know if it is red oak.

   My wife wanted the flat satin finish that Danish oil provides. The dresser turned out great and I was hoping that I could find a way to match the color.

   My bedside table needs to be a bit darker and a bit more reddish in color.

   I suppose I could get another can of Danish oil such as a cherry or mahogany and mix the two until I find something close.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 13, 2009 11:03pm | #4

   That's one approach.  Also note there is a Dark Walnut in the Watco line, that might help. 

   The other alternative is to work with some dye.  Dye wouldn't prevent using an oil/varnish finish for the same "in-the-wood" look as on the other pieces.  The dye would go on bare wood before the oil/varnish.  I'd recommend a powdered water soluble dye--TransFast or the Lockwood dyes, as examples.  You will have to do a fair amount of experimentation to determine how intensely to mix the dye.  With dye in particular, the look depends heavily on the top coat so any tests need to go from start to finish. 

    

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 14, 2009 12:32am | #5

   If the wood species are not the same, you will have little chance of the two items coloring the same. Oak, whether white or red, is a hard wood that does not absorb stains as deeply as some other woods. The higher the grit you sand to, the less intense the color will be.Howie.........

3. 
   oldusty | Nov 14, 2009 05:46pm | #6

       Without knowing the exact specie this becomes harder to do , heck you may have an old Ash or Elm piece of furniture there .

        We are a need to have data group , please send pictures

                 regards  dusty

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Nov 14, 2009 06:23pm | #7

   "The dresser may well be 80 years old and I do not know what or how many times it has been refinished. Nor do I know if it is red oak"....

   If it is that old there is a good chance it is white oak IMO. Someone already stated the obvious.. if your test piece is red oak and the original piece is white oak.. you don't have a snow-ball's chance in Haiti's of getting an exact match. Trust me as I use both often since I retired 2 years ago.

   Also... what was stated about 220 grit... I never go beyond 180 with either oak as I don't find the necessity and you run the risk of burnishing which opens up another can of worms.

   Good luck..Sarge..

   Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia

3. 
   BarryinVic | Dec 03, 2009 09:13pm | #8

   Thanks for all the sugestions....I thought I should give you an update.

   I ended up using 5 parts Dansh oil dark walnut, 3 parts Miniwax red mahogany stain and 3 parts Miniwax dark walnut stain. I matched the existing oak dresser very closely.....remember I didn't need a perfect match.

   The only minor downside was that I had to buff the two bedside tables three or four times over a two day period to remove a small amount of "bleed out" from the deep pores.

   Thanks again.......

   Barry

    

    

1. 
   spotcheck | Dec 03, 2009 10:34pm | #9

   "I had to buff the two bedside tables three or four times over a two day period to remove a small amount of "bleed out" from the deep pores"

   heh-heh-heh......Welcome to the world of "oil on red oak".  Always seems like more seeps out than you put on in the first place.