I’m looking for some recommendations on products to finish a white oak dresser. I like the look when it’s been freshly sanded and would like to have it as close to that as possible. I don’t want it to yellow and I want it to look distinct from flooring. I’m thinking of using non waxed sanding sealer and then clear satin polyurethane. I did hear good things about the water bourne polyurethane called Bona Traffic HD that minimizes yellowing that oil based polyurethane may. Any advice for a newbie finisher?
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Replies
Bona Traffic HD is a fantastic two part floor finish. I've used is several times, and it wears like iron. I wouldn't use it on a dresser.
Any water based poly will add zero color to the wood, and won't yellow. But you will get a build, and it won't be that freshly sanded look. You'll get that from an oil finish. But it will change the color.
Thank you! This is helpful.
White oak likes water-based poly. It just pops with that as a finish, unlike Walnut, which just ends up looking sickly. Pretty much any quality finish would be good for your purpose.
The Zinsser sanding sealer Seal Coat will add an amber tone to the white oak, go straight to the clear poly, a satin finish will be closer to the sanded look you are seeking, my favorite is General Finishes high performance, 3 coats over their water soluble sanding sealer.
Appreciate the recommendation. General finishes looks like a good product.
Try it on some scrap first to make sure you like the results.
Good idea.
Poly will look more like “flooring” because it’s a thick film. Look into CAB acrylic lacquer for a less solids look, water-white, non-yellowing. I know the Sherwin Williams version comes in gloss, bright, medium, and dull rubbed effect.
Thanks! I’ll look into this product.
One other thing about oak, or any open grain wood, if you're looking for a super smooth glass finish you won't get with a topcoat alone, you'll need to use grain filler.
White oak has closed cells.
Do a little more research about white oak. I have 10 acres of white oak that I cut, saw, and use for furniture. It's got smaller pores than red oak, and yes, the pores are closed, but that just means they don't leak, they're still there. Google grain filler on white oak, Stumpy Nubs and FWW for example.
I am in a room surrounded by white oak (and mahogany) I don’t think YouTube can teach me what white oak is.
I’ve been in rooms filled with MRIs and CTs, but that didn’t mean I knew much about them. :-) Lots of professional woodworkers, in shops, in books, and yes, on YouTube, use filler on white oak. You don’t? Great. Will the OP want to? Up to him.
The OP is looking to keep his freshly-sanded look, not trying to get to glass smooth. Grain filler seems not to fit here.
The freshly sanded look he said he wants may have nothing to do with smooth vs open-pore feel and everything to do with the look of wood without yellow tint. I’m sure he’s a big boy and can decide that. :-)
I think you would be happy with a product called Odie's Oil. Easy to apply, it absolutely leaves that natural look. Its a little expensive but worth it.
Thanks! I looked into it and it looks really nice. Adds a lot of depth. Do you use the universal oil or other products in tandem? Any special tips in using?
I use the universal oil and follow it up with Odie's Wood Butter for a little more sheen. This finish is very forgiving, no runs, no drips, looks natural, blends nicely. I will say this I found it to be a workout to work the finish into the wood but I think the results are worth it.
Try the Chris Schwarz soap finish. Looks as close to fresh sanded unfinished wood as you can get.
I second the soap finish.
Do you know if the soap finish will stop the white oak from yellowing over time? I don't understand the science behind the yellowing...
I'm no expert but I would expect not. Yellowing is pretty much inevitable over time though the soap finish will cover some. It is in part due to oxidation of the wood (which you can slow with a film finish) and in part due to the effect of light on the exposed surface. White oak does tend to change nicely in my experience.
Wood changes colour over time - not a lot you can do about it. All you can really hope for is not to add to issues with changes in the finish.
Some finishes add colour immediately, some will yellow over time, some will not.
As I said before, my personal preference is a very light coat of water based poly on white oak as it does keep the colour well and adds a lot of protection. It is also not itself prone to yellowing like a spirit based product will be. You could also try a natural oil like tung oil, which offers less protection but may give the look you seek, if you can wait 3 weeks for it to cure.
You could also use osmo or rubio - both of these are popular with professionals though I have never used either.
Whatever you choose, the time and effort taken to try several options might be well worth it.
Another finish option is Osmo Polyx-Oil 3051 Raw. As described by Osmo, this finish is specifically designed to maintain the unfinished color of light colored woods.
I have not used this specific product, but have used another, similar, Osmo Polyx-Oil product on a couple of projects that are subject to heavy use. I found it very easy to use and was very pleased with the result.
+1 for raw oil, looks totally unfinished but seals well use 2 coats
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