Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2005 09:48pm | #1

   "Also, I've heard rumors of the table sagging with heavy routers,"  What?!  Where?  Can't imagine.  It is important, however, to make sure the table top is support all the way around the edge.  They do say, however, "for routers heavier than 10 lb., the insert plate system is the better choice."

   You would use the sled for any end-routing that needs support to keep the stock 90* to the fence.  It isn't advisable to try and keep the stock steady and fully against the fence using only your hand(s).  See page 186 of the catalog, Item A picture.  "...giving you...complete control of end routing, and a simple, accurate way to dado work up to 8" wide."  You could also use a shop-made angled block to adapt it to end-routing at various angles.

   I love the Veritas table top.  Many will argue that there's a disadvantage to not having a miter slot, but not me.  Just a place for dust to collect, IMHO, and there's nothing it would do that can't be done just as easily another way.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Lyptus | Oct 04, 2005 10:55pm | #2

   So basically, are you saying that if one wants to use a 3 hp router (most of which are over 10 lbs.) in a table, then one should go with the insert?  Isn't there a way to build support with stretchers under the metal table to prevent sagging- even for heavy routers?  Have you heard of anyone doing that?

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2005 12:42am | #3

   I was simply quoting from their catalog.  It would certain be easy enough to build in extra support for the regular steel table if you wanted to.  I may indeed do that, since I recently swapped out the PC690 for a 3HP Freud which weighs around 12#.  The basic frame to hold the LV tabletop is just that, very basic rectangular frame.  Seems like all you'd have to do would be to run a couple of stretchers, as you say, to head off any potential (but maybe unlikely?) sagging.

   I did find with the PC690 that removing the handles made things much more manageable underneath the table.  With the Freud, that hasn't been an issue.  Hope that helps.  "Have you heard of anyone doing that?"  I hadn't even heard of anyone having problems with the table sagging, so nope.  I'll think on it some and seem what kind of supports make sense.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Lyptus | Oct 05, 2005 03:16pm | #5

   Regarding your Freud router- I've been thinking of either getting the Freud 3hp or the Hitachi M12V?  Did you look at the Hitachi too?  What sold you on the Freud?

   - Lyptus

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 05, 2005 08:12pm | #6

   "What sold you on the Freud?"  An auctioneer.  :-)  :-)  Sorry, I couldn't resist.  I bought it at an estate auction along with several other tools years ago.  It is a horse of a router, but if I were buying a new router, the M12V would certainly be in consideration.  Have to confess, I haven't researched the big plunge routers because I've had this one and it's worked great.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   cando | Oct 05, 2005 12:48am | #4

   Hi Lyptus,   I've had the Veritas router table top and sled for years. My router is over 10 lbs and I've never had problems with sag. The support for the table was built using the plan that came with the top. The sled is handy when you rout rail end grain as well as box joints. Just another note -  when one of the nylon guides in the sled fell out after many years of use Lee Valley sent me new ones within two days, no charge. I've had nothing but great experiences with L.V. and I've been dealing with them for over 10 years.  Take care, Cando