L-fence miter joints and sled–what do you think?
I am making multiple pencil cups 5″H x 3″W x 3″L using miter/bevel joinery. I am using Matt Kenney’s one runner sled on the table saw, on the side away from where the blade points. I am using a stop block, set 3″ away from the blade. the first bevel with a 3″ stop cuts fine, the 2nd bevel often has a cut that results in a side with a tapered width, resulting in a gap. I think the side is somehow shifting when I make the 2nd cut.
For the 2nd or both bevel cuts, I am considering adding an L-Fence on the side that the blade is pointing to, which combined with the sled with stop block should result in a consistent width and angle. (I’ve used the L-fence with double stick tape template to make single boxes with mitered cuts but I’m trying to “batch” and make multiple boxes.)
I realize that this is a through cut using a fence and a miter sled but the cut off will be small, covered by the L-Fence.
Do you think it is safe to use an L-Fence and a miter sled with a stop block to cut mitered box sides?
Replies
I believe this video will answer your question... the L-fence will limit movement to one side.. even if the piece moves away from the L-fence... the piece should be able to be rerun, just like cutting a rabbit with a dado buried partially buried in sacrificial fence.. So I don't think a stop block is needed...
https://woodschool.org/woodschool_videos/31-how-to-cut-carcase-miters/
thank you!
I thank you too.
BobE
Ty, Great site
follow up; I watched the Tim Rousseau video a couple of times and read BVD's 2013 article on L-fence--2 pages were on bevels-- a couple of times more. the video and article complemented each other. I ended up setting the L fence like BVD since it was non-destructive. I added sandpaper and a "back fence" to the "gauge hook" BVD described and the method worked perfectly. I "salvaged" all 4 sides of the latest pencil cup, all the joints fit and are now glued up. I think the method will be great for batching several boxes at one time. Thank you AJG.