Replies

1. 
   Alan | Dec 31, 2002 02:07am | #1

   Mark,

   I'd like to know a few more details first:  I'd like to know what product you used;  how you applied it;  and how many coats you applied before you began rubbing out.  Also, what you did between coats:  how long you let it dry, how you prepared the surface for the new coat.  How large a project is this, and why do you think it's too large for a varnish finish (assuming you used varnish)?  And finally, what rubbing-out steps you went through before you got to the pumice and paraffin oil.

   Without knowing a bit more I can't begin to give you any advice.

   Alan

1. 
   mgjacobs2 | Dec 31, 2002 05:04am | #2

   Alan,

   Thanks for getting back so quickly.

   Oil based pigment stain to highlight the grain.

   Used a good quality brush for application.

   Drying time between coats was 12hrs as specified by the manufacturer.

   Thinned coat of Behlens(sp?) Rockhard Tabletop Varnish using their reducer.

   Sanded 320 between coats for leveling and dust nibs.

   Last coat thinned 15% to enhance flowout. Total of 5 coats.

   Sanded with 320 to an even sheen then went to 2F, then 4F as they wanted a semi-gloss finish.

   The top is 6 ft by 3 ft with a bow on 1 long edge being 30in on ea. end.

   I used this product as I have had good results on some smaller projects in the past and it seemed to fit the project giving a nice amber tint and depth of color that I was looking for.

1. 
   Alan | Dec 31, 2002 04:00pm | #3

   Mark,

   I've not used Behlen's table/bar top varnish, but their products with which I am familiar are very good quality.  I don't think you could get a much better product; and IMHO it is perfectly suitable for your project.

   The one thing that jumps out is that you applied four thinned coats, before applying an even thinner final coat.  You also say you sand with 320 between coats both to get rid of the nibs and for leveling.  I wonder if you had enough build for the amount you wanted to rub it out.

   On horizontal surfaces I use a badger-fitch "flowing" brush and I lay the varnish on in about as thick a coat as I can.  (Being careful not to get it on too thick, or it will take forever to cure all the way through.)  I also let it dry at least twenty-four hours before I re-coat, and usually longer.

   Between coats, like you, I lightly sand with either 320 or 400.  However, the operative word is lightly:  I make no effort to level the surface between coats.  All I try to do is to eliminate the little nits and nibs, and scuff the surface to ensure a good mechanical bond between coats.

   I generally get a good build in three or four coats, though this is with full strength varnish.  (I understand Behlens recommends their Rockhard varnish be thinned.  Is that right?)  After the last coat I let the piece sit for as long as I can stand it--at least a week, a month is better though a more severe trial of my patience, six months would be better yet (but I can only aspire to that saintly degree of patience).  I want the varnish to cure as fully as possible before I begin rubbing out.  IME the rub out goes faster and the finished surface looks and feels better.

   I use 320 or 400 to remove the bumps.  Then I wet sand with 400 wet/dry paper lubricated with water with a drop of soap in it, to level.  Once I'm satisfied that it's level I begin rubbing out with 0000 steel wool and wool lube.

   I guess what I'm saying is that I try to be sure I have enough finish on the surface before I begin to rub out.  Not thinning the varnish, using a badger-fitch brush and not doing much sanding between coats all help me get a good build in the fewest possible coats.

   Alan

1. 
   mgjacobs2 | Jan 01, 2003 08:48am | #4

   Alan,

   Thanks for the advice. Only the first and last coat were thinned. I did get some air bubbles that needed attention on some of the middle coats. I think I worked the finish too much. Each coat was properly tipped off. Perhaps I didn't get the raw surface leveled well enough.

   I have sanded out the surface with 320 grit. I then touched up the areas I was having trouble with making sure to feather the edges well. Then I sanded the edges out making sure that I did not sand the blemish itself except to rough the surface and you can't even seem them. I'm going to put on another coat and finish with 400W/D and steel wool as you prescribed.

   Thanks for your help.

   Mark

   P.S. : Happy New Year

1. 
   Alan | Jan 02, 2003 12:15am | #5

   Mark,

   I'm glad you worked it out.

   HNY to you,

   Alan