The case of the breaching router bit
OK, so I’m a little PO’d, but no crisis.
I’m using a Triton 21/4 HP router in a table, to rabbet both ends of some 3/4 birch ply for some ‘cabinets’ (very utilitarian, nothing fancy). I had previously done four pieces, eight ends, no problem. I made the set-up again today, measured twice, made a sample, everything measured correct. I did two pieces (~18 x 48), both ends, and all was well. When making the last rabbet, about 1/2 along the 18″ length, the damn bit came right up through…
Looking at the immediately preceding rabbet, the bit was obviously higher, and the bit now will not fit ‘under’ the first rabbet I cut only minutes previously.
The ply is all from the same sheet, and it’s all the same thickness. I tightened the bit as I always do, and set the bit height as I always do…
Replies
Were you using an upcut spiral bit? They have a tendency to screw up into the wood and out of the collet. The usual advice is to increase the height by very small increments, but even doing this I've had the problem, especially with 1/4 inch bits. I have the larger Triton, but I had the problem with a different brand router also. I've more or less given up on using spirals for blind grooves -- they're inherently dangerous as far as I'm concerned.
Jim
I've had them climb out of every collet I own except the ones with Elimanitor Collets. One of those is on a 625 in my Woodrat. Gets used more than all the others combined. But now that I've made that statement (gloat?) I'll have to keep a sharp eye on that one now!
Them little bits can be a pain!! had one break off about 3/8 of an inch off inside the collet. Wondered why I could not fit another bit in. Took off the collet and a chunk of carbide fell out.
Not a spiral bit, 1/2" shank, straight 1" dia.
I've done a bit of my own post-mortem (well, so to speak, LOL). The collet clearly wasn't as tight as it should have been by at least a 1/4 turn. As I've never had this happen before, I have to presume the fault lies with me.
While on the subject of Triton routers in tables, I do wish the crank was about 2" longer so that it would clear the fence. That's a pain in the neck.
Ed.I've got the same router in my table. The fence is on the opposite side of the crank so I haven't had a clearance problem yet. Couldn't you modify it or make a custom crank for your situation? I believe it's just a rod with a slit cut in the end.or rotate your router 180°.Greg
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If the router is in an insert, why not rotate the router/insert?I haven't use my crank yet, but my Triton is mounted right into the top. If the crank fence issue ever arises, I'll just unbolt the router and rotate it until I get it where it should be. Don
Easier said than done, in this case, I think. The router is in a Benchdog table on the side of my table saw. It's been at least a year or more, and maybe I could rotate it some, but it seemed at the time that its current position provided the best compromise of access to the saw tilt wheel, and the router ON/OFF switch.
I'll add it to my to-do list when I get my RoundToIt ;-)
Is your router mounted to a plate that drops into the table? If so, can you lift the plate out of the table and rotate the plate 180° then replace it? This would put the crank on the opposite side of the bit, away from the fence.Greg
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Are your bits bottomed out in the router?
The Woodrat has the router bit inserting up. The tables have the bit inserting down. Is it possible in the table the bit is bottoming out and the collet can't tighten it properly?
I insert a 1/2" rubber grommet inside the collets so the bit sits on the grommet. There is still adequate room to compress it as the collet tightens around the bit, pulling it into the collet.
Greg
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