Replies

1. 
   DennisS | Aug 24, 2002 09:13am | #1

   I suspect you have to consider how much your time is worth and what kind of skills you have to accomplish what you want. Can you purchase what you want/need ready to go? If so, how long do you think it would take you to make something of comparable quality?

   That's not meant as a slam since you mentioned you were a beginner. For my part, even though I've been cutting big boards into smaller ones for some time. I appreciate the time it would save me if I could just buy a bolt-on unit.

   That said, I will be at some point building an outfeed table for my table saw. For this I intend to use 3/4 MDF. Probably won't bother with a p-lam finish or anything fancy since it will get cut & marred and I'll probably want to replace it more than once or twice over the long haul.

   A sturdy 2x4 frame well braced side to side and back to front.

   I don't think I'd like working around and rubbing against the raw edges of a plywood top is why I'd go for MDF, I guess.

   What kind of saw do you have?

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

1. 
   wanda20011 | Aug 24, 2002 04:04pm | #4

   Hello,

   My saw is a King 10" contractor saw. 2 hp induction motor/belt and pullyey/system.

   MDF......Is that material easier to cut than plywood. I've never build anything using MDF. Would I be able to cut that with a cross cut blade?

   You don't happen to have a picture you could post of your ext. table do you? or perhaps a diagram.  Do these ext. tables usually have 2 legs or can you build them with 4. All the pictures I've seen have two legs. I better have a look through my Finewoodworking mag and take another look at the article on table saw fences. They show a selection of various types of ext. tables. I'm not sure about the bracing.

   wanda

1. 
   DennisS | Aug 24, 2002 10:48pm | #7

   > ....My saw is a King 10" contractor saw. 2 hp induction motor/belt and pulley/system.

   OK, as I figured, I wouldn't know anything about your saw, but then I don't know a lot about much anyway (grin).

   Guess I'm a little confused. Are you looking to add an extension *wing*, that is on the side of the saw, or an outfeed extension on the back of the existing table? Having to cut miter gauge slots leads me to believe you're talking about a table for the back side of the saw, right.

   Now then, how thick is your existing saw table? Cast iron, I suspect? Assuming it's cast iron and at least an inch or more thick around the edges, here's one idea to kick around.

   You can drill some 1/4" or 3/8" holes along the back side to which you could bolt a short piece of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle iron (availble at most home/hardware supply places. Bolt it on so one leg sticks our from the table and the other leg is flat against it:

   saw table

   -------------

   | 3/4" below saw surface

   |____angle

   ||

   ||

   You could turn the angle up the other way and rout out the edge of the MDF so it's coped around the angle leg and bolts, too, which would put the bolts a little further from the saw table edge.

   MDF stands for Medium Density Fiberboard. Somewhat the same type of stuff as particle board only has finer particles, basically. You can cut it with any normal wood cutting tool but wear breathing protection and or have a fan to blow the dust away. It makes lots of dust and the chemicals used to bind the wood particles together can be rather nasty.

   It the crude attempt at drawing with ascii characters isn't clear, I'll sketch something up and send it direct email if you like.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

2. 
   BG | Aug 24, 2002 01:23pm | #2

   Wanda,

   I think its a great beginner project, especially given limited space.  Mine is made of birch ply with a drop in top for the router.  I also but on two 2.5 foot wings that flip up to support longer boards.  I did this because I also use the table for my 12.5 planer and Chop saw.  When I bring up the wings, I've got a nice flush long support for planing and cutting miters.  The wings are supported by triangled shaped plywood which are attached to the cabinet sides with piano hinges. The fun part was tring to figue out all the issues and developing an integrated solution...i'm much better at getting myself confused than woodworking....lol...good luck 

1. 
   wanda20011 | Aug 24, 2002 03:58pm | #3

   Hi BG,

   Sure love to have an extension table like yours. I am trying to visualize all the parts and how I can go about building it. LOL

   Do you have any plans for this table? I work better if I have the plans in front of me. Routering the slots for the miter guage is not a problem I can handle that but I'm not sure how to attach the ext. to the tablesaw.

   I need to look at a drawing or diagram. Do you have a picture of your multipurpose extension table?

   Wanda

1. 
   BG | Aug 24, 2002 04:23pm | #5

   Wanda,

   My table is on four wheels and is pushed up to the table saw.  Like most of my projects no plans ...I can't draw...sigh...usually I just figure stuff out on the back of an envelope.  Norm did a roll up table / TS extension and you can see his picture at the old yankee workshop projects section.

   When you mention routing for the miter gauge..are you planning this table for more than just the support of stock?   Or are you talking about the miter gauge in the router table? 

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Aug 24, 2002 07:15pm | #6

   Wanda:

      Great advice so far. You have to look at your T/S on right side exsisting wing and see if it drops 90* degrees or like my hybrid has a 3/4 inch drop for anchoring a ext. If not, grab a cup of coffee and follow BG's comment of figure out what you can improvise to anchor it. I have an 60 inch extention using MDF coated with 6 coats poly sanded tween coats. I have also used Birch plywood. MDF is best cut with a combo blade even though cross-cut works fine if you only have one. I also have a rear ext. as Dennis mentioned. Use your imagination! I spent a year building all my assy tables, workbenchs and cabinets and jigs. Everything is custom made for my height and comfort. I don't have to take but a step or two to find any related item used with these. I have a theory of putting the horse b=4 the cart. I think as BG said, you will learn much by doing it yourself. Sort of practice for the serious furniture ahead. Thinking and common sense play a large role in designing and producing quality. IMO, no better way to tune up your skills and end up with a custom workshop.

      You can add a router set-up in ext. Good idea if you have limited space. I built my own top, fence and custom cabinet, but I am fortunate to have the time and space. You have to cut a hole with a rabbeted ledge for a phelonic insert. Templates and inserts available through Rockler and  Eagle America among other sources. Miter tracks and related fixtures are also available.

      You are very capable of all you mentioned! Just look at pictures mags and sit down and think it out. IMO, you will be amazed at how many mistakes can be eliminated by thinking b-4 doing. BTW.. Your confidence level will also take a couple of steps up the ladder to success.....IMO..

   Good Luck With Decision and drop on in, anytime!!

   Sarge..john

4. 
   TonyBarr | Aug 25, 2002 12:43am | #8

   Wanda,

   I am currently  undergoing the year of workshop construction that Sarge described.  I have layed out the design for my woodshop that includes 5 benches / assy tables and a sturdy outfeed table with a wood vise so that I can use it as an extra workbench when needed. 

   My outfeed table is contructed of a 67" long maple butcher block countertop that I inherited from a neighbor's kitchen remodeling project.  I had to widen the top from 25" to 30" to span the cast iron table of my Delta Contractors saw using strips of maple ripped from same batch of couner tops.  The frame consists of milled square and straight Hem Fir 2x4's that I buit up into leg assemblies using mortise and tenon and bridle joints to attach put together.  The top strechers are fastened to the top using lag screws thru slots to allow for movement.

   This is my first real woodworking project.  I find it ironic that the very benches I will be using for fine woodworking in the future will be built upon the benches I learned on, but I guess you have to start somewhere.  I'm going at it very slowly to make sure everything is straigth, square and sturdy (no wiggle allowed!).

   I attached the end of the outfeed table to the stamped steel left hand extension table flange with a lag screw.  On the other side, I made a bracket from some scrap steel.  I used a routher to cut extension slots for the two miter slots.  I purchased adjustable leveling feet from Grainger for each leg.  since my basement floor slopes for a drain, I required this feature.  The outfeed table and table saw (I boosted it up 4 inches) stand 40".  This will be the height of all of my benches.

   One word of warning: When building an outfeed table for your contractor saw, make sure that you have clearance for the motor when the blade is tilted over at 45 degrees.  The motors on contractor's saw are actually behind the saw (underneath your outfeed table).  Since the motor swings up when the blade is  tilted, you have to allow for a generous clearance envelope underneath.  I did not do this at first and when I tilted the blade for the first time, I could only get to about 20 degrees before the motor colllided with the leg assembly.  I had to relieve the underside of my 1.5" thick table as well, so if your outfeed table is much more than 3/4" thick, you may have to do this as well.

   I do have plans (I design using AutoCAD) that I could provide in Adobe Acrobat format.  I'll have to clean them up a bit before I can post them.  Let me know via e-mail  if you are interested in seeing them.

   Good Luck!

   Tony