Need some help on replacing this rocker switch from my Powermatic 63A Artisan 10″ table saw. It is part number 6285322 in the parts manual. I bought this saw in 1989 and I have searched Google for every combination I can think of and can’t find anything. I removed it fron the saw and when I opened it up, one of the contacts came out, looking at it closer, it looks like it shorted some how and it came off the connection point. Is there another switch I can use? The is for connectors on the back, two for the motor and two for the plug. I am a lot of things but I ain’t no electrical wizard :)The switch is rated 20A 125V AC and under that 12A 250V AC.
Thanks for your help, Rick
Replies
Is there a part number on the switch itself?
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Sorry I forgot to add that dg. It is E77589 - searched that as well with no luck
The E77589 is the date code, 89 is the year of manufacture. Try Grizzly as they have a nice selection of similar switches.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
Option 1: Find a local dealer of Powermatic machines, and ask them if they can get the switch for you.
Option 2: Go to the nearest Woodcraft (or their website) and buy/order a "universal" safety switch. Be sure that the box includes instructions.
Option 3: Give me your address. That old Powermatic can't be much good anymore. I'll haul it away for you, so you'll have room for a new one.
Thanks for the wonderful options - Option 1 I tried before for other parts, there just isn't any for the 63, the is a guy in Memphis (60 miles west of me) that supposedly bought out all of the parts from Powermatic and I will contact him Monday. Option 2 sounds like a good idea so I will check out the website, Option 3, I am in Jackson, TN and you are welcome to buy the saw :)
Didn't see anything on Woodcraft but found the attached on Rockler. I suppose I just connect the wireds that were on the switch and then plug into the new switch? Thanks for your help.
I'm pretty sure I've seen a compatible switch on Grizzly's website, should be less than $10.
Checked it out and though it looks the same it is rated only at 10 amp, however, I did find a safety type switch I ordered and it was about half the cost of the one I saw on Rockler's website, and is 20 am. Thanks for the tip. Rick
I ran into a similar problem after I bought a used Unisaw. Turned out that the magnetic switch didn't work, the previous owner (a cabinetmaker) was turning it on and off using a wall switch! I ended up getting a replacement switch from Grizzly, one that is also magnetic.
Your switch is much smaller and simpler. You shouldn't have any trouble getting an equivalent replacement, or perhaps you could go magnetic? How often does your power go out where you're at? ;-)
FG fortunetly the power supply here in West TN is pretty stable, so I don't lose power that often but I am going the route the Jeff S recommended and have ordered the paddle switch from Grizzly. I smiled at the wall switch comment as I finshed up a few cuts with the extension cord and plug up near the left wing and strated and stopped it that way :) The saw is a great saw as Jeff can attest to, I have often thought of going with a Hybrid type saw, but with the cast iron wings and the Vega fence, I can imagine anything else will do as well. I'm sure the day will come where I won't be able to find parts for this thing, but until then.... Happy New Year everyone and thanks for the help.
Glad someone out there has a stable power supply, LOL. If I'd been using my saw last night, instead of backing up my hard drive, the magnetic switch would have paid for itself -- 6 times!!! We had a big, wet, heavy snow and some tree was wreaking havoc with the power lines. BOOM!!....BOOM!!........BOOOM!! Sky lights up, power goes off, but comes back on, with each boom. Earlier in the evening, it was just power blips, but no sound effects.
Truth be told, after the 2nd "blip" I'd have shut down the shop, but the first power interruption would have made me appreciate the new magnetic switch on the Unisaw.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, glad you didn't have anything fry when your power went snap, crackle, pop (or boom)! Years ago I was inside a fish fry tent swapping out CO2 soda pop canisters when the transformer directly overhead blew. I really thought I'd been shot! Scared the potty out of me! How fortunate to be able to provide a little entertainment for the patrons.
I can understand your fright -- they make a big noise!
We weren't on that circuit, so I guess that was in our favor. As mentioned, it was the people just up the road who lost power. I've got a surge protector on the new HDTV and DVR box, ho[pefully it will work if needed!
Only damage I ever had from a power "oops" was the controller on my very old pellet stove. That was costly and continues to irritate me, as the stove is a PITA to run now, compared to before.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 1/5/2009 11:16 pm by forestgirl
Tincup57
you should really think about moving your new paddle switch to under the front fence rail. That is a much better location than on the body of the saw. It is much easier to turn on/off there.
I agree it is a nice saw (for a contractors saw)- I have never had any problems with mine. I like the Vega fence- it stays very accurate and parallel. However, my desire for a riving knife instead of the flimsy American style blade guard has made me think of replacing it... someday. More power (3 hp or more) would also be nice when cutting >4/4 wood.
Jeff
Jeff, I will take your suggestion regarding the mounting of the switch but I'll have to wait until it arrives to figure out how to do that....it would be much better than reaching under for the original small switch. I can cut 8/4 cherry and ash without the saw bogging down at all. I purchased a Tenryu GM-25540 10" blade and it is (in my opinion) as good a blade as I have ever used includding the Forrest II. (That comment is not made to start a long string of blade comparisons :-) )I'll let you know how it works out once I get the switch installed.
Thanks, Rick
I will also highly recommend a Tenryu GM-25540 Gold Metal blade. It was the best blade that I have ever used on my Unisaw. The blade cuts like a hot knife thru butter, leaves a very smooth cut and is extremely quiet when cutting. This blade was on my saw 90% of the time as it was a good ripper also. I now have a Hammer slider.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.
"Life is not a success only journey." Dr. Phil
The numbers just tell you that the switch is good whether you have the motor wired for 110 v or 220 v. You will want a replacement with the same capacity as far as voltage and amps. If it just has to fit back into the machine like the original, you'll have to shop around. If you just want a switch in order to get back to business, any appropriately rated switch should do.
(Sounds like FG may have an extra wall switch you could use in an emergency).
Edited 1/4/2009 7:28 pm ET by heartwould
For what it is worth.... I have the same saw and a couple of years ago I changed the switch to one of the big paddle types that I can turn off with my knee or hip or whatever. I also decided to move it forward by mounting it beneath the front fence rail. It works great there and I think it is a substantial improvement over the original location.
the switch I bought is from Grizzly. - since I was changing the switch I also converted to 220 at the same time- that also was a trivial but good move.
Jeff
Check with your General Dealer. My switch gave up and I picked up a satisfactory replacement. After wards, I saw a nice General start/stop switch with a great big red OFF paddle.
Don
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