I have the small Jet cabinet saw with 1 3/4 hp motor. Today I was trying to rip 8/4 red oak and the saw blade was bogging down and would come to a stop. The motor continues to run and the belts run, it’s just the blade that stops. The motor never tripped the breaker. I replaced the standard belts with link belts over 2 years ago when I bought the saw. I have a Forrest WW II 40 tooth blade.
Any and all recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Steve
Replies
Tighten the motor's & arbor's pulley and tighten the arbor nut on blade Steinmetz
Edited 8/17/2004 6:34 pm ET by steinmetz
I have tightened the arbor nut the same way, so I know this was not loose.
Steve
If belt is slipping, maybe one link too many? oil or wax on belt? Belt take up pulley's spring sprung? Steinmetz.
I forgot to add that the feed rate was slow, so I don't think that was the problem.
Thanks again, Steve
You might get on better with less teeth on the blade, sounds like the gullets are filling up with chips.
Make sure you still have the shaft keys with the pulleys. When i had a small cabinet saw, it was forever losing them. When i had a problem like that, i would know it was time to sift the sawdust...
I don't use link belts, but regular belts can get glazed, so maybe it's time to spring for a new one?
Belt tension on most small table saws is applied by the weight of the motor. Make sure it can move up and down freely and is not hung up. This is in addition to the other good suggestions already made.
The breaker did not trip because, once the belt slips, the blade is not doing any cutting and the motor draws less power.
Probably though, you're just expecting too much from the small saw. I have trouble ripping hardwood that thick with my 1½ hp saw. After you've eliminated loose saw components as a cause, try a new ripping blade. If you are using a combination blade or an old ripping blade the saw works much harder. The blade does not have to be a very expensive one. A moderate one won't have the life of a premium blade, but nearly all blades cut quite nicely when brand new. A thinner blade will produce a rougher cut, but draw less power from the motor and belt.
If you have a bandsaw, you may wish to rip on it. It won't be all that much faster, but it won't smoke and smell like burning up on a table saw.
The blade will self tighten, don't crank on the arbor nut. Sounds like your top pulley is slipping on the shaft, better check the key and set screw. With some saws, raising the blade all the way may make the top pulley hit under the table. 2" oak will challenge that saw. Delta motors can be re-wired for 220 with an increase in HP. I don't know if Jets are the same but it definitely improved my Delta saw.
scall ....
If the belt were slipping I'd think you'd smell something like buring runner. Don't know what the link belts are made from but as fast as the motor is turning, a slipping belt translates into lots of friction in a hurry.
*UNPLUG THE SAW*
Put a piece of scrap wood against the front side of the blade and try to move the belt by hand. See if the belt is slipping or if you have a pulley slip situation. Or ... hold onto the motor pulley with one hand and (covering the blade with a large rag) try to move the blade by hand.
The WWII blade is pretty 'heavy' for a contractor's type saw. You're really taxing the saw's power on oak that thick.
Just my opinion is all.
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
Scall,
You did not mention how many pieces of 8/4 you tried to cut...could it be the wood has something to do with your problem...reacting to the cut?
Using a 24 tooth, thin kerf makes a big difference...but in the meantime you might try raising the current blade to full height and, thereby, reducing the friction a bit...also a short fense.
Using a splitter? Is the cut closing up on the blade? That's sure to stop the blade (and create a dangerous kickback situation).
use the smallest diameter blade that will cut it, mebbe an 8.5, or a 9.o....it really helps too.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Thanks for all of your advice. THe problem turned out to be the inside belt was tracling on the outside pulley and the outside pulley was just sitting on the shaft. I have no idea how this happened. I was using the saw the other day and it worked fine. I did go ahead and clean everything and made sure everything was tighened, lubed, etc. I also changed the blade to a thin kerf 24 tooth blade.
I was back ripping some wood yesterday and can continue making some interior doors.
Thanks again, Steve
Scall,
I,ll bet a chunk of wood was lodged in the 'Hinge' that allows the motor to pivot (Float) on the belt and provide for raising and lowering the blade.
Since the weight of the motor keeps the belt taut , anything that prevents it from hanging snugly to the belt (Sawdust/ Chunks Etc) will cause looseness, belt slipping and jumping over the pulley flange. Steinmetz
Edited 8/19/2004 8:09 pm ET by steinmetz
I don't know what the cause was, but I'm very happy to be using the saw again.
STeve
Dear Scall:
you gave me a big scare about the problem with the 1 and 3/4 hp Jet saw. I assume is the newest jet Supersaw. I just ordered it a week ago and yesterday I started to put it together. It replaces a 1980 Delta Unisaw with a 1 and 1/2 HP. I never had a problem cutting 2" oak or maple with the Unisaw so I expected the same performance with the Jet Supersaw. For a moment, in reading your original letter I thought I had made the bargain of a mole who exchanged the eyes for a longer tail. (Old world analogy). I decided to change to get a sliding table and even more important I was tired to see dust all over and in my face. The newer jet saw has a modern dust collecting system.
Jonh,
I don't have the supersaw, but the small version of the cabinet saw ( you can see it on amazon) I believe the motors are the same. As I said, mine has been wired for 220.
After discovering the problem and a saw tune up I was back to ripping 8/4 abd 6/4 red oak without a problem.
I do like the jet and I think you will too.
Good Luck, Steve
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