How was the front apron in the attached picture constructed for the overlapping center drawer-front? Is the front apron one board with a center hole cut in the board and drawer guides between the front and back aprons, or is it a “frame” of multiple pieces of wood used to make up the center hole for the overlapping drawer? Would like to apply the same method (best method) for building a desk with an overlapping drawer front.
Thanks for the feedback,
Brian
Replies
bmyyou,
Normally I'd take a board and make two rip cuts and two cross cuts thereby retrieving the drawer front. Then resize the pieces and glue up. That gives me a drawer front that matches the grain, etc. However, your picture shows a painted apron and legs, chances are the apron and legs are a poplar and the drawer front matches the top wood (maple?)
Assuming that you mean that the drawer front is an overlay (overlapping) style, cutting a "hole" in the front apron isn't an option. An overlay drawer front needs to be larger than the drawer box opening.
I would make this style of apron in four pieces. Two narrow, full length, pieces for above and below the drawer, and two wider pieces for either side of the drawer opening. If your piece will be painted, just glue the pieces up and sand them smooth. If you're staining, spend some time getting the best possible grain match before your glue-up.
I would also run two pieces between the front and back aprons to provide support for my drawer glides - as well as some additional support for the top.
Thanks, but I'm actually talking about making similar overlapping drawer fronts instead of inset drawers, and I think the drawer in this picture is that type of drawer. I've seen both approaches used (cutting a hole vs. building a "frame"), so I was wondering which one was best.
The desk will be made from maple so I am not concerned about matching grain patterns across the desk front apron with the drawer fronts.
If staining the apron, I would cut a hole in the apron stock and use a different piece for the drawer front. This method wastes the wood from the hole and may be a little more difficult to get the opening square and smooth, but the final piece would be seamless.
If painting the apron, I would use a top strip, bottom strip, and two side strips, edge-glued together, for the apron. This method is easier to make square and the seams would be covered by the paint. Just make sure you sand or plane the seams to make them smooth.
Edited 2/4/2008 5:04 pm by GettinTher
Personally, I prefer making the front apron in pieces since cutting a hole (or holes) for the drawers often requires quite a bit of "tweaking" to get the edges straight and square.
Here are some pictures of a computer "desk" I made 3-4 years ago using this method. The right drawer is actually fairly small to accomodate a shelf for the DSL modem and plug strip inside the table.
"An overlay drawer front needs to be larger than the drawer box opening."
No problem... just drag out the ol' board stretcher!Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Would those be in the pipe stretcher aisle? Which size would you recommend? - lol
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