Replies

1. 
   ring | Jan 01, 2006 08:18pm | #1

   First of all, that cross-grain piece is a breadboard, and it can be very suitable to a country-style table, but it needs to be done correctly so it doesn't cause cracks in the top.  Find a decent furnituremaking book or an article in FWW.  It's too much for my clumsy typing skills to explain here.

   Second of all, you can certainly leave the end grain exposed.  Either way is completely acceptable.

   DR

1. 
   jarhead | Jan 01, 2006 08:24pm | #2

              Thanks, I will look further into the FWW.

                               Semper Fi

2. 
   AB | Jan 01, 2006 08:29pm | #3

   Semper Fi Devil Dog! A breadboard would be a great way to trim the ends, leave plenty of expansion room. The boards will expand and contract with the seasons. They will get wider not longer. Good luck. Sun glasses or sand fleas? Ohrah! AB

1. 
   jarhead | Jan 01, 2006 08:39pm | #4

   LOL. Back to you! I need to find an article on the subject because I am not quite following the jest of the breadboard. If the breadboard is put on the end grain, the breadboard will prevent the width of the boards from moving. You are right the length of the boards will not move. Now I am assuming that you glue the breadboard to the end grain, if not, this may be my problem with logically figuring out the width of the board not moving thus causing stress cracks. I know what they say about assuming........  :-)

                                 Semper Fi

1. 
   AB | Jan 02, 2006 02:54am | #5

   You are right find an article. A picture will help alot. Semper Fi

2. 
   Barrie2777 | Jan 02, 2006 04:54am | #6

   With the bread board the end of the table is not glued for its entire width, this allows for expansion.  I am not a big fan of this construction although it is common on certain styles of tables.  I dislike the uneven corners of the table as the seasons change.  One thing for certain, there will only be a very short time when the bread board is the same length as the width of the table.  I prefer to build using a skirt and fasten the top to this.  A skirtless table can also be built if the top is held flat with the crosspieces above the legs.  Again slotted srew holes must be used.

3. 
   user-83659 | Jan 04, 2006 04:48am | #11

   MCRDPISC or San Diago?

   Semper Fi

   Peter

3. 
   Pondfish | Jan 02, 2006 03:47pm | #7

   An 8x4 table is pretty big; you might want to check the dimensions before you build anything.  A 42" wide table is already fairly wide--you sure you want to add six more inches?

   Breadboarding is the correct way to go, but be sure that you calculate the expected wood movement once you have determined what wood you will use and what the final width will be.  Make sure that you cut your tabletop tenon shorter than the slot mortise in the ends to allow for this expansion (e.g., if you expect 1" of movement, leave 1/2" space at either end, assuming you are building the table in the dry of winter).

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   Ricks503 | Jan 05, 2006 06:58pm | #12

   get some boxes and/or sawhorses and put them in the dining room and then take a sheet of plywood and lay down and see how that fits the room. 

   If you have them, put chairs around it and get in and out of them and see how close you are to walls and other furniture in the room.

   Do other people have room to walk behind you comfortably when you are seated, or do they have squeeze by sideways.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 02, 2006 05:21pm | #8

   If you don't want to use the breadboard, a thumbnail mold on the edge, all round, can be attractive and minimize the appearance of end grain.  It will also lighten the look of the top. 

   You didn't mention how the top, which at 4' is quite wide, will be supported.  If on trestles the breadboard end is also of some value in taming any tendancy to warp that the panel might have.  However, if legs are pulled closer to the corners and the top can be attached to a rail, you don't need that benefit from the breadboard.  You would need more than 4 legs though for that length, of course. 

5. 
   wrudiger | Jan 03, 2006 12:30am | #9

   The Taunton Dining Tables book has a bunch of different styles of tables (including detailed instructions for making them).  There is also a chapter on design considerations, including size.  Although 48" wide seems excessive to most of the respondents (including me!) the book suggests 42" minimum width and 54" as optimum.  Learn something new every day!

   They also say that 8' long is optimum for 6 people.  Sounds like the spacing you see in movies with 2 people sitting at the ends of a 20' long table - LOL.

   Every table in the book that used solid wood (vs. veneer) just lets the end grain show.  With a good quality wood, and sufficient attention to sanding & finishing, I think the end grain can look great, and you don't have all the size difference issues you get with breadboard - especially on something that wide.

6. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 03, 2006 09:02pm | #10

   "Semper Fidelis," which is Latin for "always faithful." It was adopted in 1883..

   Ya Marines used us ARMY guys for Target Practice! Good shots!

   Thanks for your service!.. I just 'fixed' tanks...