Replies

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 17, 2009 11:57pm | #1

   If I understand you correctly, the problem is that the shims that fall into the threads prevent the dado stack from becoming a tight package. All you need to do is give the whole assembly a spin (by hand, of course) and the shims will follow the groove in the threads until they are tight with the stack.

2. 
   ring | Dec 18, 2009 12:25am | #2

   Frank,

   That raises a question in my mind, because on the saws I'm familiar with the threads are stopped in the section of shaft that you should be using to stack blades. If a shim is falling into one of the grooves then maybe the dado cutters are also sitting over threaded shaft?

   Even if that's actually the case, you might have better luck using paper/cardboard shims instead of the metal ones. They work just fine and are more benign.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 21, 2009 02:42pm | #5

   I can't think of any saw
   I can't think of any saw arbor shafts on this side of the pond that would have that much unthreaded section. Otherwise, you would have to have a really thick stabilizer washer to be able to tighten the nut down on the regular sawblade.

3. 
   dovetail59 | Dec 18, 2009 08:16pm | #3

   Hello Frank , I have had the same issue , but the magnetic shims have solved the problem . Most of the woodworking suppliers sell them & they are not that expensive , the comment about slowly spinning the blade also works . Gary

4. 
   fgnoel2 | Dec 21, 2009 10:49am | #4

   Thanks for the suggestions. They all sound like they may solve my problem. These forums have been very helpful to me as I pursue my woodworking experience.

   Frank

1. 
   RDNZL | Dec 21, 2009 09:25pm | #6

   If the shims are used right next to the first outside blade - the one next to the arbor flange - the problem goes away, as every arbor I've ever seen isn't threaded in that far.

   This, of course, raises another issue. If you are trying to fine tune a fit on a wider dado, it requires removal and replacement of all the chippers each time you adjust. This can be tedious. A good set of calipers can help avoid most of this - you simply measure the shim(s) prior to mounting them, and add the total to the stack total. A test cut will tell you how close you are.

   Alternatively, you can use a benign viscous substance on the shim to stick it to the outside of a chipper. A while back, on this forum, I got a lot of flack for my method - I simply touch the shim to my tongue in a couple of places and the saliva does the trick. As a result, I got perjoratively labeled a "shimlicker". It's OK, I can live with that - it works for me. I make sure to wipe off any moisture before storage.

   Another fellow recommended a dab of grease. Should work as well.