I have a Dewalt stacked dado set, DW812DADO, the chart claims the two 12 tooth blades alone create a 1/4 cut. I have a Grizzly left-hand arbor saw. The label side of the dado blades say “This side out” assuming “Out” is facing away from the arbor? (to the right)
When the blade labels both face out/right then one the blades’ teeth face forward and the second blades’ teeth face backward. In this configuration, which I see as wrong, the dado cut is 9/32’s. I am trying to achieve a 1/4 cut.
When the blade labels oppose/face each other, the teeth on both blades face forward, as they should. The cut is 11/32nds in this configuration.
Not sure what else I can do here. Can’t imagine the 2 blades are this far off.
Replies
While I’m not familiar with that particular dado set, “this side out” typically means out relative to each other — place the non-labeled sides together and the labeled sides will face out.
Hope this works for you.
The blades have to be facing in the right direction to cut. Don't make it more complicated than that.
Aren't dado sets a pain? So much easier to use a router if you need a dado for which you have the right size bit...
As @John_C2 says, those blades have to face the right way.
My dado set (Felder) is horribly complicated and needs different outer blades depending on configuration - you do to be fair get perfect flat-bottomed grooves, but it's more miss than hit with setup.
Probably not a bad thing as the router is a safer choice generally.
"Out" is from the center of the dado stack, not from the arbor. Rotation direction is obvious, but usually marked on the blade plates.
Some day when I have access or own a table saw I will learn to use a dado set and make an organizer like this one:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/membership/pdf/8580/011175066.pdf
This article illustrates how to configure a dado set among other things.
The photo that shows the guy cutting a groove on the vertical piece of wood by just pressing it against the fence, with no other support, made me lose all confidence in his opinion on how best to do things. :-)
I need to cut a vertical dado, 1/4 x 7/8 in a 3/4" board, hence my previous question. Your comment caught my eye, should the guy in the referenced .pdf have used a tenoning jig on his saw? Is there another way to do that safely? Featherboards and pushsticks? I also have a router table but also hoping to master the dado blade. Thanks.
A tenoning jig would be ideal. The kind McLaughlin has a video of on his Epic Woodworking YouTube channel would work very well.
Some might suggest a wide backer board to push with but considering the tenoning jig will last for years it’s worth making anyway.
That cut in the photo is uncomfortable. All the more so given the so many options the author most certainly had just steps from the table saw to make it safer and predictable.
Mike
Thanks Mike! I am getting ready to watch the video on YouTube now. Is there any reason not to buy a cast iron tenoning jig? Rockler, Woodcraft and Grizzly all have one that is almost identical. ~$175 Predictable and safe, I like that combination.
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MJ is correct, it’s referring to the stack, not the arbor.
I’m sorry John but “In” and “Out” does matter. You can’t just swap them.
My Amana set is labeled in/out the Forrest is not. You can see the outer blade tooth geometry is different.
Just look at the bevel on the teeth no label is needed.
If you do not align opposing teeth in a gullet it will cut fat, and damage the carbide.
A quality set should cut 1/4" exactly or just a bit under ideally. You use shims in between to dial in exact widths.
It's all very simple
Thanks all. This is easy once you realize "Out" has nothing to do with the arbor. When each blade faces out they nest into a 1/4 cut. There were no further instructions on the Dewalt site and nothing on YouTube. First thing this morning I checked this thread, I always have good answers. I learned the obvious which is sometimes painful but better than frozen in my tracks.
27B_6 is correct. This side out refers to the stack, not the arbor. Each of the outer blades is designed to cut one side of its cut cleanly, with its pointed beveled teeth all on one side. The other side is in the interior of the dado, so doesn't matter.
He is also correct in that the carbide teeth of one blade need to be located in the gullets of the other blade, so that the metal saw plates are against each other. This gives the correct width of cut, and avoids damage to the carbide teeth. They should never touch anything hard except the wood.
When setting up a dado blade, be sure to firmly tighten the arbor nut. I have had the weight of a dado set loosen the arbor nut when the saw is turned off, and the motor's starting switch re-engages and rapidly slows the motor. Not a pleasant experience. I was using a 10" dado set on a 10" Powermatic table saw. After a couple hair-raising experieces, I sold the 10" set to someone with a 12" saw, and bought an 8" set, that stays put (when I tighten the nut securely.) Raise the dado set all the way, and use an appropriate piece of wood at the back to keep it from turning as you tighten it.
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