Replies

1. 
   GDH2 | Jun 17, 2008 05:07am | #1

   Or a Stanley 112...
   45 degree bevel?
   Use the middle of the angle range typically?
   Do you burnish a hook? (if so, how?)
   Thanks

2. 
   GDH2 | Jun 28, 2008 07:15am | #2

   Fine Furniture Designs -

   I am not familiar with your particular scraper but I can give you what I think is some correct advice - (AND bump this higher on John's list!)

   I believe -
   1) the bevel in a cabinet scraper plane should be about 45 degrees,
   2) sharp is good,
   3) the bevel should face the rear,
   4) the blade should start out leaning slightly forward from vertical
   5) the blade should protrude just slightly (I put a 3x5 card under one side and adjust the blade so it just touches the workbench).

   You can improve the result by burnishing the edge toward the direction of travel to get a hooked edge. The goal is shavings, NOT sawdust.

   As the blade dulls, you can tilt the blade more.

   That said, I am not sure I know what I'm talking about, so advice from an EXPERT would be good.

   Doug
   The Wood Loon
   Acton, MA
1. 
   FineFurnitureDesigns | Jul 02, 2008 10:19pm | #6

   Thanks for your help! I now know where to start.
   Alan (Fine Furniture Designs)

3. 
   xmike | Jun 29, 2008 11:40am | #3

   Something to watch when setting up your scraper plane is to be sure that when you make your initial adjustment of the plane blade's depth, you make sure that you have angled the blade holder forward about 10 degrees as a starting point. Then set the blade depth. I forgo the card spacer and just set the blade flush with the sole with the plane setting on the saw table.
   If I don't lean the blade holder forward during blade setup with my LV scraper plane, I find that it cuts way too aggressively and can't be backed off to cut a finer shaving.
   Hope this helps,
   Mike D

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/29/2008 4:41 am ET by Mike_D

4. 
   JohnWW | Jul 02, 2008 06:38pm | #4

   I'm sorry for being slow to answer, a number of things have kept me off line for a couple of weeks.

   Like hand scrapers, setting up a scraper plane takes some experimenting to get a combination of sharpening, burnishing, blade depth, and blade angle that work well, in combination, for the wood being surfaced.

   As already noted by a helpful soul, the blade is typically given a back angle of around 45 degrees. Like a hand held scraper, the flat face and the bevel surface should come to a sharp edge and be smoothly finished with a stone of some sort. After that, you should turn a burr, toward the flat face, with a burnisher. Because of the angled edge, the burr should turn rather easier than on a square edged card scraper. Start out with a small burr and experiment with the plane, you can increase the burr without having to resharpen.

   Eventually the burr will become dull but you can often flatten it and then burnish up a new burr a few times before you again have to file and stone the edge.

   As already described, setting the plane on a piece of paper is the easiest way to set the blade exposure. The angle of the blade in the holder, when it is adjustable, is usually arrived at by experimenting, which gets easier with some experience.

   John White

1. 
   FineFurnitureDesigns | Jul 02, 2008 10:17pm | #5

   Thanks John for getting back to me. I now know where to start.
   Alan (Fine Furniture Designs)