I am building a router table top. Originally I was using two sheets of 3/4 birch plywood and a hardwood edge band. I have available a sheet of 1/2 inch HDPE or UHMW.
Should I just add the plastic to the top and inset a 1/4 router plate or go to 1 sheet of 3/4 ply and add ribbing to strengthen the top or not use the HDPE at all?
Greg
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Based on experience: I would avoid the plastic. It tends to get scratched and gouged easily.
It could be a great time to learn to apply formice though.
See notes for a very simple alternative.
My understanding is that you use 5/8 MDF with 6 rails for support. Is the router attached to two of the rails?Greg
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No.
Thank you. I thought screws didn't hold well into MDF. Are you using an insert? If so, is it epoxied in?Greg
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Please see RT link.
I like the simplicity of your design. But perhaps I am missing something that is under my nose. I read that link two or three times and don't see the mounting details.You bolted a cast iron lift to the table. Originally you just bolted the router base casting directly to the MDF — Correct? Is that what the recessed Hex socket head screws are that shows in the photo with the T-handle height adjustment? ... and the router / lift mounting holes in the top are close clearance holes and not threaded?Finally, What is your preference for the lift? I was going to stay away from one because of the criticism about the lift flexing, letting the router camber off plumb.Greg
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You're complicating this.
See last paragraph here.
I don't use a lift, don't want one; have no need for one. Would not know who has the best. Do know they're well priced for what they comprise but not for this tech who can still bend at the knee.
The one in the link to which you refer was a commission; I made the bugger but I don't own it.
And you are right, the lift was bolted right to the top just like my routers are.
KISS; life in Routerdom will be straight forward if you do.
Thank you. It's 3:20 am & I can't sleep. Was sitting here thinking about my post when it suddenly became clear. I logged on to delete my last response, but you had already replied.I appreciate your time, especially in clearing up the lift question.BTW, what is your background — machinist, engineer...?Greg
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Struggler.
I build Norms table with some mods. I used two pieces of 3/4 mdf with formica on top banded by 1" oak. I've been using it for 2 plus years and not side effects or issues at all. I have a woodpecker PRL & PC7518.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I have a few router tables. My favorite is cast Iron but my 3/4 inch MDF tables are very flat.. Like in the day I made them! I work in a garage shop that is unheated and I get really hot in the summer! (I Like hot) Chicago here so we get ALL sorts of weather! I just sealed all the MDF WITH SHELLAC.. The edges will take ALOT!
I have never had any warp or whatever!
Do you bolt directly to the MDF or use a plate?Greg
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MDF Or a Base Plate! BOTH! I thought all needed a good (as in flat) baseplate!
All I can say is all of my router tops (as in most) are MDF.. I think sealing the edges are most importent.. Whatever..
I do every year.. Seal the edges , bottom and the top with shellqac .. WHATEVER I have left,, As in at the time.. MDF does not like ALOT of water.. BUT works!
I have jigs or whatever years old that are still flat!
Do you bolt directly to the MDF or use a plate?
I have very thin strip of MDF between the Cast Iron table and the Rckler lift I have.. OH....What a chore to make! But there several years and still OK!
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