Is the phenolic table really better than the MDF tables? I am looking at both the Jessem and the Kreg ones. I will be also getting the Mastr lift. I will need it to have a 9 1/4 x 11 3/4 plate opening for my 3 hp PC router. Appreciate comments on what you own and what you would recommend. Thanks
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Replies
It probably won't help you to mention it, since you can no longer buy one, but the best router table top I've ever seen and used is the Veritas 1/4" thick steel plate item with built in universal router-holder clasps underneath.
I mention it because such a thing has many advantages over the now ubiquitous MDF, phenolic and similar tops.
* Being thinner than MDF et al tops, it allows more of any router bit to project above the table.
* Being steel, it remains dead flat forever. (In fact, the Vertits item was made with a tiny upward bulge centred on the router hole, calculated so that the average weight of a 3HP router hanging underneath would pull it dead flat).
* Being steel, magnetic featherboards can be used anywhere on the table, unfettered by the need to use them in a tabletop groove or track.
* The steel top can be polished to a very fine slipperiness, with no drag on the workpieces.
Could such a thing be easily made from high quality sheet steel, using metal working tools? I've often wondered but, given the longevity of the Veritas top I have (over 20 years old, mine, and still perfectly flat) there's been no need to have a go at making myself one.
There are some apparently high quality phenolic tops about. But the glue + wood dust cores can so easily sag, break or otherwise degrade. Even a very slight sag or other distortion can ruin the performance of the router in making a perfect cut.
Lataxe
My suggestion is, as always it seems, build your own.
I built mine from 3/4" melamine laminated to 3/4" MDF. This resulted in a thick, stable and durable top. Plus it could be any size you want or need.
I will add that the router is attached to an insert plate, 1/4" thick, so the table thickness has no bearing on how much bit can be projected.
I frogot to mention, the cost can be much less as well.
The phenolic is probably better than the mdf but it is still too flexible and brittle to make a good table, the aluminum ones are a big improvement.
Cast iron if you can find and afford it. I got mine 20+ years back, it's mounted as the right wing of my tablesaw. It came with a plastic plate, I replaced it with an aluminum one.
I also had this concern about sagging router table tops. With some planning and design, I built my router table top as a torsion box with a center square opening for the router. It will never sag. 15 years later and it's flat as can be..
Norman
I made mine from 12mm compact laminate sheet - is that 'phenolic'?
I made a double layer - the top made of 3 pieces which were glued to the bottom sheet in a way that created 2 slots for a mitre gauge or sled. I chose the material for the sled/mitre guides and used those as spacers when gluing up. This allowed an accurate sliding fit without having to machine out the slots.
I constructed my router table top as a torsion box with a centre square opening after some thought and design. There are a few other samples at Bergen Furniture & Design.
I use a 20 yr old(?) Rockler router table top - 2 pieces of MDF covered with Melamine. At some point I constructed a torsion box as mentioned above to stabilize/flatten it a bit. I use it with a Rockler pro plate. All works fine. I also use a a Jessem 4010 Masterfence II with it...really like that fence a lot!
Incra makes good router tables but I don't know if it would work with your existing lift.