Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jun 21, 2004 06:50pm | #1

   Plain MDF?  Most folks put laminate on the surface. I'd laminate both sides or at least coat the bottom with a sealer and laminate the top. I've seen too many tops warp. 

2. 
   AlanWS | Jun 21, 2004 08:53pm | #2

   There are a lot of opinions. I like Patrick Warner's (AKA routerman's) router table with an MDF top finished with 4 coats of Tung oil/poly, and then waxed: http://www.patwarner.com/router_table.html

   Mine is less elaborate, but also has an easily replaceable MDF top, which is supported underneath by several ribs; this works well to keep it flat. Rather than inserts for different size bits, I can simply replace the top. My current zero-clearance top was switched quickly and was not really finished, just waxed quickly with a handful of crumpled waxed paper. It slides fine and is flat, but probably won't last well unless I do something else to it. Enough wax is enough to make wood slide easily. Other finish should help seal the top and make it harder. Make sure you seal the top and bottom surfaces of your top the same way to avoid warping with humidity changes.

   Eventually, I will want to make an elaborate fence like his.

3. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 22, 2004 01:59am | #3

   Most would prefer a laminate skin over the MDF, but if you are already committed, your best bet is to apply 2-3 coats of polyurethane. Let that cure for a week or so and wax it with any furniture wax -- Butcher's and Johnson Paste wax are two that are commonly available in most parts of the country.

1. 
   AlanTurner | Jun 22, 2004 03:18pm | #4

   I have used a ragged on dewaxed shellac, followed by paste wax, on the MDF base of my TS sled, and it worked wonderfully, and quickly. Justa a thought.Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

4. 
   BArnold | Jun 23, 2004 05:28am | #5

   I've seen very good results on exactly what you describe by coating all surfaces with plain old paste wax.  Be sure it's something like Johnson's so it has a good oil content.  I made the mistake of buying Minwax Finishing Paste Wax and not reading the label -- it has very little, if any, oil content.  Use as many coats (3, 4 or more) of Johnson's to achieve a smoothe appearance.

   The other suggestions are valid as well: formica on both faces, poly, etc.  But, if you're already committed, go for the paste wax.

   Bill Arnold

   B&B Woodworking

5. 
   Pondfish | Jun 23, 2004 09:23pm | #6

   I laminated my top--it's smooth and easy to keep clean. 

   If I stuck with MDF, I would certainly shellac it (after sealing the edges with a 50/50 mix of yellow glue & water).  BUt I think you will be pleased with a white laminate top (the reflective surface also helps brighten up things).

1. 
   because | Jun 24, 2004 05:24pm | #7

   Thanks for the advice.

   One more question. IF I wax the top and then decide to laminate in a few months will I have to remove the wax in order to apply the glue? If glue is actually what is used, I have never worked with laminate.

1. 
   mudman | Jun 24, 2004 05:34pm | #8

   You will have to remove the wax, alcohol if effective. It might be better to make a new top though. The alcohol may loosen the MDF fibers, probably not. Regardless you should really laminate both sides. It will almost certiantly warp if you don't.please excuse my spelling.

2. 
   DougF | Jun 24, 2004 05:46pm | #9

   Contact cement is use to bond laminates and it is critical that both surfaces are smooth and free of any contaminants. 

   If you plan to make any surfaces such as out-tables or side wings for your table saw or base cabinet tops, laminating is a an easy and useful skill to acquire.  Personally, I think anytime you moving wood into a rotating cutter or blade, you want to have a minimum degree of surface friction to avoid inaccurate cuts, burns, not to mention injuries.  I can assure you that if you compare sliding a piece of wood on a router table with a laminate surface vs. an mdf surface, you will quickly experience the difference. 

   If you are reluctant to take a stab at this, go down to a cabinet shop and they will probably have laminated scraps that are of sufficient size for your router table top, such as the piece cut out for a kitchen sink.

   Doug

     

1. 
   because | Jun 25, 2004 04:15am | #10

   Other than finding a cabinet shop with some scrap laminate where would I be able to get some?

1. 
   bobJackson | Jun 25, 2004 06:09am | #11

   Most full service lumber yards in my area have laminate in the basic colors and will order for you what they dont stock. They will have contact cement too.   Bob

2. 
   nikkiwood | Jun 26, 2004 07:08am | #12

   Last time I looked, the local HD sold various sized pieces of plastic laminate in standard colors.

   Around here, regular laminate suppliers will also sell pieces (such as 4 X 4 or 3 X 6).

   If you do wax your existing top, I would remake the entire thing if you want to use laminate. MDF is cheap, and the risk of residual contamination is too great. I would, however, keep the old top around if you have the storage space, since it is sometimes very handy to have 2 router table set ups for various operations.