Replies

1. 
   DonStephan | Oct 29, 2009 01:58am | #1

   Not sure if the hardwood edging is wanted to extend under the veneer, or be added after veneer glued to substrate.  Following is two different approaches, only the first would work if edging to be added after veneering.

   It was a lot of time and work, but I used a methodology well described in Taunton's "Dining Tables" book by Kim Carleton Graves.  In summary, pivot a router to make a round pattern for I think the inside diameter of the hardwood edging.  Use a particular combination of guide bushing and router bit diameter to make an intermediate pattern slightly larger diameter than the circke's diameter.  I made four quadrant intermediates, each perhaps 110 degrees so there would be overlap.  Then using another specific guide bushing/bit pattern on the intermediate patterns to make final patterns with inside diameter exactly same as the circle.  This obviously took some time, but at least as much time was spent making holding jig (using I think 3 Destaco clamps, no idea what model) to hold the roughly shaped hardwood edging and patterns for pattern routing.

   Another approach I haven't tried is to make a square of your table substrate, with diagonals about 5/8" less than the inside diameter of the hardwood edging.  Then wrap the square with hardwood wide enough so that the desired outer diameter will be within the hardwood "square."  Swing a circle with a router to trim to the desired diameter. 

   The latter approach is skads (scads?) faster, but there will be a varying width of hardwood under the veneer.  Especially on larger table, the width of hardwood under the veneer would exceed common recommendation of no more than about 3/4".

2. 
   DonC | Oct 30, 2009 05:46am | #2

   I suggest you forget the 2 1/2" solid edge. Instead do the 2 1/2" in fancy veneer and apply veneer to the edge. I sometimes make this edge veneer rather thick (1/8") and allow it to stand proud oof the veneered surface with a bullnose, like cockbeading on a drawer. It definitely looks nice.

   If you insist on solid edging, I would just set up a router with shop made compass jig and swing the router for a perfect match. Spiral down cut bits should be used for routing the veneered top to prevent chipout.

1. 
   Rob Brown | Oct 30, 2009 11:06pm | #3

   I like the veneered edge, too. Glue both surfaces. Let dry. Then use a household iron to re-activate the glue. Works really well.If you "love" solid wood then there is no substitute for a router on a circle cutting jig with the workpiece secured to a workbench. Once the curved, routed pieces are made bandsaw a piece of scrap 3/4" ply and screw is (at the perfect angle) to your cross-cut sled. You can fine tune the angle with small shims to get a perfect joint between the different curved sections. It's probably best to glue the sections on one or two at a time.Rob Brown
   http://www.equinoxinteriors.ca