Replies

1. 
   fingerlessHack | Mar 12, 2006 09:08pm | #1

   If this is the same sliding table which comes standard on x31 combo (around year 1999 model) , then I have experience.

   In my opinion, the table is very very difficult to align. I tried for years (tweaking the the alignment, to which I never was satisfied and gave up. Now maybe I was being to anal.  I attempted to adjust it where I could consistently cut 15"X15" squares from plywood. And each time I checked for squareness, 3 sides would be almost dead on except for the fourth and final side, squareness had runout 1/16" thru 1/8". I understood the problem was an additive error effect always applied to the final squareness cut... each prior square cut's runout/error would be summed up to reveal the final-amount of out-of-squareness for the fourth and final square cut.

   I have heard, Laguna rents, jigs to add in aligning the table... this could have been a rumor. My attitude was, this is BS, the table should come with the necessary adjustment capablilties to easily calibrate the table, within reason. In my opinion, the out of box adjustment capabilities are not reasonable. Albeit, reasonable is different for each woodworkers determination.

   In a nutshell, four table adjustments need to be mastered: table's pitch (front to back tilt), table's roll (side to side tilt), table's rail tracking bar relative to blade or miter slot, and the miter fences squareness relative to blade. The first three mentioned adjustments are not easily done with out of the box capablities. The miter fences squareness, in my opinion, is not reliable due to its design. Hard to explain...the miter fence's micro square adjustment is achieved by adjusting a screw. Clockwise adjustment causes miter fence to tilt towards end of table. If end of screw is not completely flat this will cause problems with micro adjusting.
    I guess remedy would be to file end of screw to a point. When done with miter cuts, hard to explain without visual, adjusting screw and plate, plate which screw screws into, is twisted down and out of way. This twisting effect could cause this assemlby to loosen causing error, maybe insignificant, but bad design. I always felt that the plate was prone to flexing, possibly causing runout during crosscutting.

   Bottom line, if you are not worried about runout, 1/8 thru 1/16", while making 15" squares, and have good skills and jigs for calibrating earlier mentioned variables, go for it.

   Cheers

1. 
   Adrian | Mar 12, 2006 09:48pm | #2

   We have one on one of our Generals....we can get it more square than 1/16" over 15", but I agree it's tricky to get it dead on, and some of the design should be improved. I'll get around to reengineering it one day, but we have a slider, so it's not top priority.

   I have used the robland, and the Excalibur (but no other small rigs)....IMO the Robland is better, and has the potential to work well. I hadn't heard about the set-up jig; I'm not sure how much value that could have.Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.

1. 
   fingerlessHack | Mar 12, 2006 10:57pm | #3

   Thanks.

   Are you saying square better than 1/16" for just a rip and than a cross-cut? Or squareness for all four sides of a piece of plywood cut into a 15"X15" square sheet... in other words, using sliding table to, rip first edge, then rotate and cross cut next edge, then rotate and rip next edge, and finally rotate and cross cut final edge. In my case, first three edges were good within .003", but final forth (cross-cut) edge was between 1/16" thru 1/8".

   Cheers

1. 
   Adrian | Mar 14, 2006 04:43pm | #4

   I always set up a slider or sliding table the same way.......I make five cuts on a piece of material, then measure the width on the last offcut at both ends with digital calipers....it amplifies how much you are out. If you can get that offcut to measure the same at both ends, you're square to any reasonable standard. You can also check the 'good' piece that results, but it will look and measure (using a square or tape measure) square well before you get the consistent measurement on the offcut.

   Now I'm thinking about the Robland, the big problem on mine is that the bolt that pushes the fence in and out to square it, has threads that are too coarse.....I need to rebuild that with a much finer adjustment. Shouldn't have to do that, but it won't be a major modification.Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.