Replies

1. 
   Radio Flyer | Dec 29, 2006 09:16pm | #1

   I purchase a Resaw King blade in a package deal with Laguna's ceramic guides for my LT18 bandsaw last March at a woodworking show.

   Since then I have done lots of resawing both in hard and soft woods with excellent results.  At first I thought it might be the guides (which I really like) and not the blade.  So I tried a Timberwolf blade I had and also always liked.  I think the Laguna blade is best.  Very good strength, fast and quite smooth.  No complaints, even though quite spendy.

   Glenn

1. 
   woodman2263 | Dec 29, 2006 09:41pm | #2

   I'm resawing with a Woodslicer (highland hardware) because of the price.  I would love to try a Resaw King or Lenox if I had the extra cash.

    

   Jeff

1. 
   mwenz | Dec 29, 2006 10:12pm | #3

   I have a Resaw King 1" blade and have bought many, many Woodslicers over the years.

   I get better results with the Woodslicers. They cut cleaner, thinner kerf, quicker and are quieter in use. Sure, they don't last as long and I do touch up the teeth once or twice before I toss them. But they work out more economical. I use them for all other BS work as well, so there's no need to swap out the blades, which is another plus with them.

   I do keep one WS blade just for resawing expensive slabs. But for any other resawing/general use, the other WS blades stay on. I will have the Resaw King resharpened, which is a plus in its favor, but mainly because the width of its kerf is useful for a certain job I now use it for.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 30, 2006 03:35am | #4

   Thank you for all the comments everyone.MWENZ,I am using the 1/2 inch Wood slicer on my 20inch band saw. Very happy with it.I am told that we can get the WS in 3/4 inch and 1 inch width.Have you tried any one of those for resawing? Do they resaw with better results than the 1/2 inch?Regards and thank you

1. 
   mwenz | Dec 30, 2006 03:57am | #6

   Woodsplicer--please call me Mike.

   Yep, I have used the 3/4". I do use the 3/4" for certain purposes. For sawing veneer, I see zero difference in surface quality between the 1/2" and 3/4". I do use the 3/4" on say 8/4 or thicker which is simply being resawn and which may have wild grain. I do this because I can crank up the tension on it.

   I have a very crazy-grained slab of Bubinga to resaw this weekend. It will be sawn with the 3/4" Woodslicer.

   Take care, Mike

2. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Dec 30, 2006 08:33pm | #15

   Morning woodsplicer..

   I agree with Mike about the 3/4" from Highland. I have used the 1/2" for years and unless you get tall.. not a lot of difference in smoothness. I currently have a 3/4" Woodslicer on my 18". I do re-saw and a lot of ripping so I am experimenting with leaving the 3/4 WS on for both. You can "crank it up" to a higher tension a bit more with the 3/4" as Mike mentioned.

   The only negative I expect is with the large amount of ripping I do, the WS will lose sharpness quicker. I have always used a Lennox 1/2" 3 tpi bi-metal for that. But... both the 3/4" WS in the $40 range with the Lennox around $50 some odd.. The bi-metal will probably stay sharper longer than the WS to cover the difference in price even though I have not concluded that at this early stage of the experiment.

   Regards...

   SARGE.. jt

3. 
   woodman2263 | Dec 31, 2006 05:45am | #16

   Sarge,

   What about those blades for BC Saw out of Canada?  I seen Michael Fortune using them on a Ridgid 14" at Marc Adams and his results where unbelievable.  Have you had any experience with these?

   Jeff

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Dec 31, 2006 11:07am | #17

   Morning Jeff..

   I have not.. if you get a handle on them, e-mail me the phone # or address and I will though. Were they carbide, bi-metal, spring steel or carbon? What form of sawing was he using them for?

   Regards...

   SARGE.. jt

5. 
   mwenz | Dec 31, 2006 12:43pm | #18

   Hi Sarge,

   BC Saw's web site is:http://www.bcsaw.com/

   They sell all the types of cutters, BS blade and what not, that any one can ask for. The BS blades are of nearly any type. The blades are actually Starrett.

   A friend of mine buys his from them due to the FWW article and is satisfied. Very reasonable price. I haven't yet, but keep telling myself I will one day...

   Take care, Mike

6. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Dec 31, 2006 10:52pm | #20

   Mike..

   Thanks for the site post.. I will check them out as was just about to order a bi-metal and a few carbon curve cutters as back-ups I like to have on hand. I may give one a try as you never really know till ya tried it..

   Again.. mucho thanks

   SARGE.. jt

7. 
   mwenz | Jan 01, 2007 12:59am | #23

   Hi Sarge--thanks for being the guinea pig--so to speak.

   Another source for good blades is Woodcraft Bands. At least for my 12" Jet in the smaller sizes--3/16"--they have great life and don't break like Olsons and the like. I actually wear them dull vs. replacing due to breakage.

   I go through a lot of blades in a year on the small saw. We use the thing a good 4 hours every day. And we cut tighter radii than the blades ought to be used for. At the cost, it's a good buy from Woodcraft Bands. But I don't saw anything critical on the little saw. It's mostly flat work of saw handle blanks.

   Take care, Mike

    

8. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Jan 01, 2007 01:56am | #25

   Mike..

   As a matter of fact, the smaller carbon ones you just referred to by Woodcraft are the couple of carbon ones I referred to needing earlier. Time to pick up a new 1/4" 6 tpi and 3/16" just for curve cutting I do on my Jet 12".

   The Jet 12" is an excellent saw for small work and a compliment to my 18" for the ripping and re-saw on larger stock. I almost sold it.. but re-though the matter as I can keep a dedicated blade on both saws that cover all my BS needs.

   I have been using the standard carbon blades for curves that Highland carriers. Forgot who makes them at the moment and my wife is rolling her eyes as dinner out awaits.. ha.. ha...

   I might try the Woodcraft on your recommendation that it doesn't break as easy and sounds as if you give it a bit of a work-out on those nice saws your grinding away at.

   Happy New Year...

   SARGE.. jt

9. 
   mwenz | Jan 01, 2007 02:06am | #26

   Here's John's [good name, eh?] web site addy:

   http://www.woodcraftbands.com/

   John's a great guy and ships quickly.

   Yeah, the little Jet is a good saw for the money. Still, I'm one BS short--my wife wants her own...

   Take care, Mike

10. 
    woodsplicer | Jan 01, 2007 02:24am | #27

    Hi Sarge,
    I am really charged up to learn and understand more about band saw blades over the last 2 days.There is so much to learn.
    Thank you for your valuable comments and answers Sarge.
    Appreciation also to Mike who steered the discussions so well.
    And to Jeff,Glen ,Jamies and all who cared to answer my questions,Thanks.
    This forum has made the world so much smaller as I am thousands of miles from all of you.
    Happy New Year!
    Woodsplicer.

11. 
    SARGEgrinder47 | Jan 01, 2007 03:51am | #29

    You're welcome woodsplicer.. There is lot's to learn about just how to get a BS up and running to reach it's potential. Then when you finally get that under your belt and you think you have all under control, you must learn about all the differences in blades and how they relate back to the saw itself.

    Then one day, it just all falls into it's proper place as pieces from jig-saw puzzle and you are left standing with one, big,  beautiful picture for all the time you invested!

    Regards...

    SARGE.. jt

12. 
    JeffHeath | Dec 31, 2006 11:52pm | #21

    Mike,

    Hello.  Read your post earlier about sharpening woodslicer blades.  I'm assuming with your experience with saws that you are doing it yourself.  Do you know of a good source to send bandsaw blades out for re-sharpening, or is it just not worth it considering the $29 price for a new 1/2" woodslicer from Highland hardware.  Thanks ahead of time, and take care.

    Happy New Year,

    Jeff

13. 
    mwenz | Jan 01, 2007 12:54am | #22

    Hi Jeff,

    If I didn't touch them up--as opposed to a real sharpening--I wouldn't bother. One of the Dremmel tools with an appropriate small diameter diamond hone makes short work of it. I mark the starting tooth, apply a little pressure, count to 1001, move the blade to the next tooth, rinse, repeat [sorry for the tongue in cheek rinse thing <g>].

    Proper sharpening entails work much like a handsaw, joint the tops, sharpen and set. While I am set up to do BS blades as regards one of my Foley sharpeners, it's not worth the hassle to me. And setting a 133" blade such as the Woodslicers is a pain.

    I have considered setting up one of the Foley machines to deal with blades like the Lenox Trimaster and the Laguna Resaw Kings as they are a more substantial investment and they have a greater life span. Haven't got around to it as I am plain too busy. So like most people, the cost of resharpening is less than the time to do it myself.

    I have an email I am just sending off to someone I trust who does circ blades and is excellent and hoping he does BS blades. I'll post the info if he does them.

    Take care, Mike

     

14. 
    JeffHeath | Jan 01, 2007 01:10am | #24

    I'd certainly appreciate a forward if you do find someone who sharpens well, and at a reasonable price.  I just purchased 2 new blades, and would love to get the old ones re-sharpened, instead of throwing them out, like I have been.

    There's just no way I'm going to do them myself.  Not when a new one is only 30 bucks.  However, if someone out there does a good job in the 10 to 15 dollar range, I'd be interested.

    Jeff

2. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 30, 2006 03:59am | #7

   Lenox is a new name to me. Is there a website I can find out more?
   Thank you

1. 
   woodman2263 | Dec 30, 2006 04:05am | #8

   Just look them up on the web.  http://www.lenoxsaw.com    These blades do a wonderful job but are a bit pricey.  I am getting close to ordering one and it will be a 1/2" 3TPI, hook tooth band.  I am sawing on a Rikon 18" and these size bands typically perform the best for me.

   Good Luck, hold on to that wallet!

   Jeff

1. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 30, 2006 04:22am | #9

   You are right" hold on to my wallet"
   My wife says I prefer to go hungry and save the money to buy tools.

2. 
   woodman2263 | Dec 30, 2006 04:30am | #10

   Woodsplicer......Now you know why I use Woodslicer from Highland Hardware.  I can't buy a bandsaw blade that cost's $200.  Heck, when my daughter was born,  it only cost me a $100 deductible!!!

   Jeff

   I would actually like to hear what Sarge has to say about bandsaw blades...maybe I missed his review? 

2. 
   hopeful | Dec 30, 2006 03:41am | #5

   I have nly used the resaw king so I can't compare. However, I can say they doa wonderful job.

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 30, 2006 04:43am | #11

   I've tried Timberwolf blades, and thought that they weren't significantly better than other steel blades.  In steel blades, I like the Woodslicer.   However, I've been using Resaw Kings for a couple years now.   They make a remarkable cut.   The initial expense is high, but they last long enough that at least in my shop they cost less than steel blades.   I do get mine resharpened, which helps reduce the cost.  I have two so that I'm not stuck without a bandsaw when one is being sharpened.  

   If you're considering a carbide blade, one advantage of the Laguna over the Lennox is that Laguna resharpens their blades.   I hunted around quite a bit, and could not find anybody who resharpened the Lennox blade.  

1. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 30, 2006 06:02am | #12

   Thank you for your comments. How do you know when to resharpen your blade apart from the obvious need to push the wood harder forward when resawing?
   I do not know whether I am doing it right but- with the machine turned off, I pass my palm very so gently across the tips of the teeth and if the tips do not "grab" my skin of my palm,it is time to resharpen.I would like to hear from others too.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 30, 2006 07:26am | #13

   I've never been able to guage the sharpness of a bandsaw blade by looking at it or feeling it.   I decide it is time to sharpen (or replace) the blade by watching how it performs.   Here's some clues...  

   It may take a little more feed pressure.  

   It may wander -- that is, not cut a straight line any more.  

   It may bow -- that is, in a tall resaw cut, the blade is no longer straight. 

   Sawdust from light-colored wood may be brown -- that is, the blade is getting hot enough to char the sawdust.  

   On my old 14" saw, the lead angle might change.

1. 
   jgossage | Dec 30, 2006 02:01pm | #14

   can anyone recommend a good 3/16" blade for cutting curves in a 6" hardwood block?  i have a 1 1/8" resaw king on the way here, but that won't help with curves!  how about the highland hardware or timberwolf blades in that size  thanks?

2. 
   woodsplicer | Dec 31, 2006 07:52pm | #19

   In an earlier thread it was mentioned that the WS cuts cleaner and faster than Resaw King.
   What has been your experience? Has the WS a more aggressive cut than the Resaw King? ie the Resaw King cuts slower and requires a harder push to cut?Happy New Year to all! My time is 58 minutes into 1st. Jan. 2007.

1. 
   pzaxtl | Jan 01, 2007 02:59am | #28

   There is no way the WS cuts cleaner than a Resaw King -- faster maybe, but definitely not cleaner.  Unless, of course, one believes that a set tooth will cut cleaner than a tooth with no set.  Perhaps it was mounted backwards ;-)

2. 
   mwenz | Jan 01, 2007 06:19am | #30

   Well, sorry but my Woodslicers cut cleaner than either of the Resaw Kings I have.

   They cut faster with less effort in all but the knarliest woods as well. And heck, did I mention the decibel level is far lower? And well, then there is the fact it has a little less than half the kerf width. Cutting veneers from a slab which cost $800, that smaller kerf means something. And cut quality does, too. I mean, yes I can and do run veneers through the sanders, but I can guarantee the Resaw Kings go through as many if not more passes.

   What does the Resaw King do better than the Woodslicer? Well, I mentioned the knarlier wood thing. That, and for resawing large slabs into non-veneer pieces, expecially if the wood is wet or damp [my wife isn a turner]. It is a truly resharpenable blade and so while it is more costly up front, at the back-end it at least evens out. But it will need resharpened equal to two Woodslicer blades. They aren't cheap to resharpen.

   Well, that's about it. At least for me in my shop. How about yours? Have you used both in an environment where one can actually compare cut quality and longevity?

   Now maybe if I didn't have a relatively inexpensive Jet 18" [the old style] that I run these blades on I would notice the difference in such a quality blade. I mean, maybe if I had spent $3k or more on a bandsaw as opposed to the measely $650 [semi-gloat] for a new Jet, I would appreciate the fact that these blades which cost nearly 7 times what a Woodslicer does can actually produce cleaner cuts than those cheap blades.

   And as long as I am on a roll, if they did produce a cut which was better on my cheap bandsaw, I would get to deal with those wonderful people at Laguna more as opposed to those people at Highland Hardware [or whatever they call themselves these days]. And...it could take me 2-3 weeks to receive my blades and only god knows how long to get them sharpened and returned as opposed to calling Highland's 800 number or ordering online and receiving new blades in a few days.

   Take care, Mikewho is nursing a smashed finger and feeling grumpy...