I need some advise on a new radial arm saw. I currently use a craftsman and am just ready to upgrade. The craftsman will not cut true time after time…91 degrees one cut…89 the next. No matter how much time I spend setting it up and adjusting…this saw will not hold true. So what do others use out there? I was thinking about the Delta X 12″. But seem to be looking closely at the Original Saw 12″ . Can you folks help me with what you are using and tell me if you can get a true 90 degree cut time after time? In furniture work…as you all know…1 degree off means filler…and I do not like filler.
I also have a lead on a B&D Dewalt 3510 12″ RAS that is about 10 years old, maybe more but am told it is in real good shape. Guy wants $2000 for it….the Delta is around $1700 and the Original Saw is $3000.
I do not want a sliding miter saw because I want the cross cut of a RAS…in the Original Saw it is 24″
Thanks folks,
Jim
Replies
Have a small Comet ras and use it mainly for dadoes. It also had a high speed end which have modified to use standard P.C. 1/4 and 1/2" collets.
It cuts and holds square.
However, for crosscutting up to 20", use an old Delta Side-kick cross-cut that is very good for the job. Have modified it also, so it can cut up to 20". Got it used for not much but it is quite valuable here. The modifications also included a setup that practically guarantees square cuts.
Over 20" would use either the T.S. or a special portable saw made with the motor of a RAS, using a guide.
Would also say that the Original Saw is said to be Dewalt machines basically, that are licensed for that purpose.
Best of all.
-mbl-
The people out at Wolfe Machinery sell parts and recondition DeWalt RAS.You can probably get a DeWalt for the price of the Delta, and have a much better tool.
I think you are talking a few degrees (+- 2 degrees) so not that terrible. Can you notice ANY movement of the arm if you try to force it left or right. I had a 1965? 12" Craftsman and had to replace the indexing pin and plate. Long ago, but wasen't hard to do. Are all the clamping mechanisms holding tight?
I would first clamp some wide scrap ply wood to the base and do some tests to try and determine exactally what is moving. The wood? , The main column? , The traveling motor mount?, Bad arbor? There are many places on a RAR that could be loose or worn. Don't forget the fence!. May be as simple and jointing a hunk of wood, clamp it down and see if this changes anything. If the fence is bad, cut will vary depending on length of stick being cut.
A new 12 inch RAS is going to cost you more than a few dollers and I would just take the whole thing apart. When reassembling clean and inspect all the parts for wear etc. Oh, by the eay, if ya old like me you may want to make a list and a little drawing so ya remember where all the stuff goes back!
check out the Festool plunge saw and MFT 1080 table. You can get 24"+ crosscuts and alot of versatility and great DC.
The Delta is a fine saw--there are two of them, I would recommend the 12". 240 volt motor.
I would also consider buying a USED DeWalt from the 1940's-1960's. I got mine for $200. Adjust it once a year is all. It always cuts true, with solid, cast iron mechanism that refuses to torque.
Orginal saw is quite pricey, but a good saw based on the old DeWalt tooling.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
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