I have a friend building a new house. He’s trying to decide on a style of railing. Is there anyone out there that can inform me just how much of a cost difference there is from the photo I’ve attached and the standard oak hand rail with spindles?
It looks to me like the installation would be about the same if not a little easier with the rail in the photo but the materials might be more.
Thanks for any feedback.
Replies
It has been a while since I built some stairs, but usually capped stringers were much less than open treads with balusters.
The cost of installing newells and rail would not change.
I used to charge $75 per newell and $75/ln.ft. for handrail with 2 balusters per tread on the rake and $60/ln.ft for loft/level rail with balusters.
That job posted with the glass would be an easy 1/2 day to install with coffee break.
I can't comment on the cost of the glass.
F.
P.S. this was during the late 90's up to 2004.
Edited 4/3/2009 2:37 pm ET by Floss
Are these labor only prices, or are they including the material? Just curious.
It would be for everything except the glass. The contractor he's hired to build the house is losing money because he underbid to break into our area and he's trying to make up costs in other places.
What about those wire systems? no fingerprints to clean off?
Labor only.F.
Hmmmm....kids or pets in the house? Forget the glass, you will be cleaning ALL THE TIME!
Did you post this on the FHB site too? Many of the stair builders hang out there (Stan Foster, Andy....).
The railing shown here is not going to be particularily expensive, but the glazing will add up quickly since that is tempered glass to meet code. My shower door was a single pane of tempered glass measuring approx 3/8"x36"x72" and it was $1200 (supply only).
Brad
I don't think there would be much difference in labor costs compared to ballusters. The glass would have to be tempered and the edges polished if brackets are used for mounting. The upper piece looks a little long for my taste. You don't want the railing to flex or be able to shock a large piece of glass. I might place an intermediate post or two depending on the expanse.
I would try to avoid the notch in the glass where the first skirtboard levels off. Much better to have a parallelogram than an inside corner like that. The glass is likely to be more expensive than basic ballusters. The rest of the work would be the same, given the only difference being the glass. It might be a good idea to check with the building inspector, in some jurasdictions they can be rather fussy and may require something extra, documentation on the glass, specs on the clips for example.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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