Pictured below is a pic of a Craftsman rabbiting plane that i just picked up at a garag e sale.
I has two places for the blade or is one missing?Wh at is the purpose of two blade locations?It has no; numbers or model # , just Craftsman stamped o.n the blade.Any idea how old it might be? Thanks Chris
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Here is a better Pic C hris
I don't know the age but it is the same as a Stanley#78 or Record 778.The blade is meant to be moved to the forward position for bullnose use.It is very useful if tuned up and the fence and depth stop are still with it
Thanks for the reply. Fence stops are all there.Looks in good cond t ion.Paid 15$ for it. thanks Chris
Your duplex rabbet plane was made by Sargent and is their #79. I just don't know enough about metal planes to give you a date but I would guess it dates from the 1920's or 1930's.
Chris
From the image side it looks all there. The other side of the plane should have a depth stop. This is often MIA.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Thanks for the reply. Yes .the depth stop is there.I,ve been reading and i was wondering what is referred to as a kerf cutter? Is that that thing that looks like a plus sign witha leg missing ? Should it be sharpened?What is that needed for? I would think that the blade would square up the rabbit good enough. Thanks Chriis
Hi Chris,The cloverleaf shaped thing is a nicker. When turned so one leg is below the sole, it will score the fibers when going across the grain.Sharpening them is a trial, but they don't need to be perfect. They are also too long and I usually have ground the one I will use shorter so it only projects 1/32" or so.And yep, on joinery planes, the idea is usually a very square edge on the main blade. When adjusting the blade, make sure the blade actually sits proud of the right side a skosh. If it is flush, you may find the plane will not cut a square corner.Take care, Mike
I have a Craftsman duplex rabbet plane from a few decades later - Millers Falls took over the task of providing them under the Craftsman name. It has long been one of the most useful tools in my shop. I honed the blade to where it would shave hairs today and used it quite a bit to make some fieldings for raised panels.I never fool with using the nicker. I find it easier to set up a marking gauge and use that to score the line first, then follow with the rabbet plane. Sometimes I use a marking knife and batten board to score the line before following with the rabbet plane. If you are doing all four sides, as with a raised panel, do the long rabbets on the two sides with the grain first. Then with the cross grain, just score between the two "long grain" rabbets. Cleaner that way, and less chance of tearout at the end of the board. Once you get the fielding established, there's a variety of ways to do the panel raising, involving an assortment of different planes and possible tools. Good luck, Ed
Thanks for the reply . appreciate your points on the rabbet plane . Chris
Ed, did you have any trouble getting yours to cut 90°?? Mine does not. Bars on the fence are straight, so it appears perhaps the fence itself is not, or the holes the bars go into aren't parallel to the sole. Seems like I might need to overcome this by practice, practice, practice. Doable, you think?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"Doable, you think?"
Certainly. Make sure the cutter is sharpened perfectly square and the cutter is held in the plane square, and you are holding the plane vertically. Someone really smart on Knots (I forget who) said, "the eye is a great comparator,..." Not only did I learn a new word, but it's one of those things that I knew was true as soon as I heard it.
Here's the stuff I use to make my little panels for boxes. The panels at the bottom are cherry, curly maple, and a mystery wood from a pallet that's something like hickory or pecan.
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Sometimes if you are having trouble getting a square cut, you can start with a rabbet plane with a fence and, having gotten the reference edge started, switch to something smaller, lighter and racier (and easier to make sure you are holding it vertically), like this Stanley 191 rabbet plane, to continue.
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If the sides of the rabbet aren't square to the work face (in other words, they are stepped), these guys here (side rabbet planes) just spend their whole life waiting to fix that problem for ya.
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Good luck on the slippery slope, FG, Ed
If you want to know more about the similar Stanley plane, the 78, click on the link below & scroll to the 78.
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan10.htm
This is a great informational website.
SW
Edited 6/24/2007 8:25 pm ET by SwartzWuest
Yes A great web site ,a lot of good info Thanks Chris
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