Building Becksvoort’s “Ship Inspired Wall Shelf” (FWW, Mar/Apr ’21) for a vet buddy of mine in Colorado. Quite challenging, but it’s coming together well so far. Notched shelves slide into the dados nicely, but with a bit of wiggle that Titebond won’t handle. Planning on a shellac/wax finish, but would prefer to prefinish everything before glue-up. And yes, I’ve got good squaring blocks that I’ll use, one shelf at a time.
Q: what’s the best way to handle any epoxy squeeze-out? Tape-out all the edges? If not, how to handle epoxy sqeeze -out on pre-waxed surfaces? Get it off right away, and how? Or wait, and deal with hardened epoxy?
I’ve used epoxy before, but not for anything like this, and I’d like to mitigate as much risk as possible.
Thanks all.
-tonto
Hartford WI
Replies
Im assuming your using epoxy as a Titebond replacment for securing the dados that were accidentally cut too large?
If you're trying to lock it in place, I don't see how epoxy would be any better than Titebond in this situation (if I'm understanding it correctly).
I'd remake the part the Dado was cut in or the part that fits into it oversized.
Suppose you are not willing or unable to remake those parts. In that case, I might try a dowel or tenon of some kind and center it in the oversized Dado, thus splitting the difference and being able to hide it with titebond while the new joinery provided the snugness and strength you're looking for
The only other thing I could think of is to make a small strip to "patch" the gap and use Titebond.
I wouldn't recommend epoxy. While I'm not experienced with it, I believe titebond can provide the same results. Plus, it's easier to conceal any errors with titebond.
I'm not sure if this helps, but I saw that no one has replied, so I thought I'd look at the project and offer my two cents for whatever it's worth.
It's an elegant-looking shelf, though btw. Lucky friend.
I kind of want to make one, too, haha. However, I have 12 in-progress projects right now, so I'm going to show some restraint this time.
I'm curious to hear what others think.
I use epoxy a lot, and yes I'll admit that my joints are not perfect. I think taping is best, and removing while the epoxy is still soft but not right away) is best. But you have to keep checking as that stuff will keep running out and run a long way. I try and position things during glue up with that in mind. Sometimes you get lucky and a long drip will peel off easily, and other times I need a bullnose plane to get it off. Corner chisels also are helpful if the joint is too full.
“[Deleted]”
Sir,
Appreciate your reply and your thoughts. Dadoes were cleaned with a router plane, nice and smooth to within 0.002" of 0.500" (0.498" via caliper.) Shelves were planed individually and incrementally until they fit nicely within each dado. Notches were cut with a 0.5" dado setup. Didn't mess with the dados from that point, but took a few swipes with a smoother until the shelves slipped down, with some urging. Was thinking of using hide glue cuz it's slippery and sets slow, but the "play" in the shelves still bothers me. Titebond won't gap-fill (and I'm feeling maybe a 1/32" wiggle.) So I'm going to pre-finish (shellac and wax) then tape 0ff everything before gluing. Any squeeze-out, and some guys on the web say wipe excess with alcohol/naptha/similar after squaring. I can't believe that the singular wood screw anchoring the supports to the shelves and spur will eliminate the little wiggle, which I can't accept.
Lastly, anyone else that take's this project on: believe Becksvort's advice to take your milling slow and easy. Longest project I've ever worked on.
/VR/
-tonto
Hartford WI
Gentlemen,
Appreciate your comments. Won't be remaking the vertical spur; it's milled and dado'd, and cleaned with a router plane. I'd guess there's 1/32" slop/wiggle of the shelves when they slip in with a wee bit of encouragement, even with all the time/care I spent getting them to slide in during dry-fit. Maybe (maybe) Titebond and a singular screw through the supports into the spur, but I can't accept the risk of any wiggle. Another guy on the web says tape it up after pre-finishing (shellac/wax), and clean up any squeeze out on the tape with alcohol/naptha/similar during square up. I'll let you know how it works, and I'm pretty confident at this point.
/VR/
-tonto
Hartford WI
End grain is not a gluing surface. Even epoxy will fail.
Drill in and use dowels in a contrasting species if the project design allows for it. Minimum of three per shelf end.
Your approach is fundamentally flawed on several levels if you're quoting measurements on a woodworking project to thousandths of an inch, employing machinist's calipers, etc.
Wood is going to make you utterly miserable.
That last remark made me laugh.
My dad is a machinist and doesn't like working with wood unless he has to.
Just different mentalities, habits, and disciplines that don't jive even though at first thought it seems they should/would.
I'm under the impression that that gentlemen may not have reviewed the design or structure of the build; the use of dowels hadn't even been mentioned by Becksvoort. Back supports are glued to the shelves. I'll respectfully ignore the rest of his nonconstructive comments.
/VR/
-tonto
Hartford WI
I didn't take what he said as unconstructive or rude.
He's just trying to help. It was solid advice, and I agree.
If there's slop you don't like in the joints and the joints are made within insignificant tolerances to the article, then perhaps it's supposed to be that way, and therefore, you need to deviate from the build slightly to satisfy your preferences.
After all, epoxy is also not mentioned in the build guide either.
This thread reminds me of an acquaintance of mine.He will call me up asking for advice, then when I suggest an approach (which he is free to accept or reject), but instead, will argue with or gainsay whatever I offer. I may even get a lecture to top it off.