I’ve been working with epoxy using the West two-part system. The problem I have gotten is bubbles and foaming. The advice seems all over the map, some same keep the epoxy and room warm, others say cold. I’ve had some luck with pre-coating the surfaces with epoxy before the big pour. I just did what I thought was a simple pour for a wood-turning blank. The cavity was about 1 inch wide by 2.5 deep. As you can see from the attached, it didn’t go well. Not just bubbles but foaming. I kept the room was 70-80 F, and the epoxy was at room temperature. Any thoughts about solutions?
thanks
mike hillinger
Replies
Have you contacted customer / technical support of the mfg?
Epoxy will generate heat while hardening and the thicker the section the more heat will be generated to the point that it boils and ruins the casting. The epoxy you are using is not meant to produce such thick sections, some epoxies are designed for just that so are casting resins.
From what I've read (and used) most of the West System products are designed as adhesives and marine coatings, they have additives for gap-filling, but that is intended for boat repair and the like.
For casting supplies try smooth-on.com.
Just sent them a query, thanks
_mj_
Good feedback, thank you.
Thanks, gulfstar
Yeah, that product is not meant to be used that thick. I left half a plastic cup full one time, and when I came back ten minutes later it melted the cup and was a foamy mass.
Alumilite is one product meant for thick boars. Likewise, I would not use it to repair a boat, as I would the West System.
In the last day or two I read and view a video about MAS epoxy. Part of the video included a "pour" similar to yours. The technician talked about the very problems you experienced and how to avoid them. May I suggest you find this video.
What if you did 3 shallower pours? A heat gun will remove any bubbles.
I think there are specific epoxies made for this application, like bar tops.
That said, would acrylic be an alternative?
Thanks for all ideas. I did reach out to the manufacturer and it’s clear I did too deep a pour. Fortunately, this is the rare project that I can recover from by sawing our the pour and trying it again. This time with a series of thinner pours. I also ordered the MAS deep pour resin for future projects.
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