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on my test piece of mahogany i am attempting to fill the grain and have used natural pore o pac and aded “transtint” to get the colour right. I have applied the finish of garnet shellac and it appears that the shellac has further dissolved the dye and i am getting this bleed back in the topcoat which i assume is from the dye. so is transtint the wrong colourant? is there a barrier coat to stop this? did i not let the filler dry long enough?{ it seemed dry after two days}. any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you.
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Replies
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TransTint - a concentrated dye concentrate, is not the best colorant as it is not readily dispersed into an oil medium and as such it can bleed into a solvent topcoat. (It's OK to use this product with water base filler) Its better to use pigment to color paste wood filler. I use Japan color, which is pigment ground in varnish, so its compatible with the oil base of the filler. You can also use UTC's which are sold under the Cal-Tint name in most Sherwin Willimas stores and Tints-All, under the Sheffield name. You can also use artist oil colors (not acrylics) available at art stores.
Jeff Jewitt
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com
*Jeff,This is really for my own info although it would apply to Alice's question. I thought TransTint was developed by you. Correct?I use artist oil in pore-o-pac. And have had good results with no bleed through. Also, I use shellac as a barrier coat in many situations. Would it not be true that because TransTint is soluble in alcohol, that applying a coat of shellac would tend to disolve the TransTint and cause it to bleed? And Jeff says, "I thought that's what I said". Do I have the picture?
*Yes -- its my product. The problem is that it is not miscible with the oil base of the pore-o pac and is not encapsulated enough by the binder. This causes it to bleed. However, I do have one customer who uses it precisely in this fashion to get am unusual bleeding effect on guitar finishes. Jeff
*thanks for the insight into the transtint. can i raid my mother in laws grumbacher oil paints, thin it and use it to colour the pore o pac? Also i use the powdered aniline dyes for staining wood, is this a usable source of colour for the filler and if so what would the solvent be. thank you.
*Alice,Yes, Grumbacher artist oils can be used as a colorant. You can use it full strength. However,adjust the color before mixing it with the pore-o-pac.Analine dye is either water soluble or alcohol soluble. Neither good for pore-o-pac.I think you may be better off switching to a water based filler and using the TransTint. You have purchased both any way. So take the leap and buy the filler too.Another option would be to make a ball with cotton covered with cheesecloth. Dab a little rottenstone on the ball. Use the shellac to rub the finish on. Build up with the abrasive and shellac will fill the pores. Its similar to french polish but easier. Mineral oil, used sparingly, can be used as a lubricant. Do your research BEFORE trying this one. The oil must be removed in the end.Jeff, you are the man here. Finishing is my weakest area. But how many times do I get to be corrected by somebody that knows. I hope that I haven't offended you by getting involved here.Alice, all of this is really a moot discussion. Your board is going to split anyway. I'M SORRY! I couldn't resist that. Don't worry about it. I have done SO many things. It probably wont. Besides, the difference between a good woodworker and an expert woodworker is that the expert learns to hide her mistakes.
*Alice,I should have changed my name where you wont become paranoid. Here is a suggestion for your clamping problem if you ever encounter it again. I thought the other site would be history. So I'm placing it here.Place the cauls as usual. Then place another caul at an angle on top of the center caul. This will place extra pressure in the middle of that caul. Of course, you can use the angled cauls as needed. This is a good an easy way to transfer pressure.Now on with your finishing question...
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