Hi Everyone – I have a finishing conundrum that I can’t figure out, and was wondering if anyone out there can help. I am a guitar maker and I’m finishing one that has a sapele body with incredible chatoyance that I want to keep under a transparent black finish. I have settled on ebonizing using a combination of black tea and steel wool dissolved in vinegar and have finally achieved the stain I want, however…
I can’t get the pores to fill with color, so I’m left with annoying light spots on multiple test pieces. I want to leave the grain open for texture and just color the pores; I’ve tried Mixol pigment dissolved in water and denatured alcohol, TransTint dye dissolved in water and denatured alcohol, and can’t get them to fill with black. Even Minwax oil based stains don’t completely fill all the pores. I’ve also tried to sand some dust in between coats for a slurry without success. General Finishes Water Based Black Stain did the trick, but it’s far too opaque for what I want to achieve.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, and I would appreciate any advice anyone can offer to help me solve this frustrating problem!
Thanks,
Mark
Fine Woodworking Recommended Products
Lee Valley Pocket Marking Gauge
With a two-fence, double-ended design, you're able to set two distances on the same gauge. However, the small fences make this tool difficult to hold comfortably and securely against the edge of the work while scribing lines, requiring more focus and effort.
Ridgid R4222 Miter Saw
Especially considering the price, among the lowest of the bunch, the Ridgid R4222 has impressive adjustability. It has the largest crosscut capacity of all the saws. And the miter and bevel settings have the largest range of travel, and a bevy of detents. However, the power switch is clumsy, a bad design especially for lefties. The adjusters are either hard to use or hard to reach. Plus, its slider needs the most room out of any of the saws.
Delta 22-555 Planer
Knife changes on this planer were easy enough, except that you need an Allen wrench to open the dust cover and gain access to the knives, and it’s not the same size as the wrench used to loosen the screws that secure the knives. The 2-1/2-in.-dia. dust port can be reversed for use on either side of the machine. Two material rollers on top of the machine aid with transferring stock from the outfeed side back to the infeed side. Finally, there is no gauge that indicates how much material you’re about to remove, a convenience that three other planers also lack.
WoodRiver Bevel Edge Socket Chisel Set
These chisels are well balanced, with a light-weight handle that makes gripping them down by the edge during chopping less fatiguing than many other chisels. Each chisel only requires a few minutes of work before its back is polished and ready to go. Similarly, the bevels all have a consistent grind that is quick to hone to razor sharpness. The smartly shaped beveled edges give the tool good mass, but with a very fine, consistent land (the flat between the side bevel and back) that won’t interfere with working in confined spaces.
Bosch GCM12SD Miter Saw
Bosch has produced another quality miter saw. It not only fits tight to the wall; it also has the shortest distance to the miter lock. The saw’s generous miter range is complemented by its large selection of miter detents. However, it falls short in a few areas. The handle is nicely ambidextrous, but its large size may make it cumbersome for all but large hands. I also found the miter and bevel controls, including their locks, stiff. The saw is the only model in the field with no light, either an LED or laser.
Replies
I tend to use India Ink for any ebonizing I do. Way less hassle and you get a nice consistent coat. I've had success filling in the small pores with the ink. Just take your time and brush it in then wipe it off.
Try adding a small amount of denatured alcohol to break the surface tension of the steel wool/vinegar
ok, thanks!
Thanks!
I would use lampblack. It will readily flow into those pores. You could mix the lampblack into shellac or other finish. Or possibly just brush the dry lampblack into the pores, then coat over with the finish.
I use lampblack a lot mixed with Plaster of Paris to fill the grain with black. I understand that you don’t want to fill.
Tim
Wood Magazine.com has a couple of great articles on filling pores.
Best of luck,
Mikaol
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled