Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | May 19, 2004 07:54pm | #1

   If the oak is all heartwood, one solution is to use a chemical stain that affects the tannins in the oak but won't affect the maple. There are a few choices, including fuming, that will darken the oak but not the maple. Click on this link for more information - Chemical Stains.

   Paul

1. 
   scooter1 | May 19, 2004 08:48pm | #3

   I read about fuming last week, and you are correct that the tannins in the White Oak will fume greatly but will affect the Maple less.

   For everyone's edification, I did make a second and third table with naturally contrasting woods, a walnut and maple. I just happen to like QS White Oak. Gosh it is pretty stained up.Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   jackplane | May 19, 2004 08:33pm | #2

   When contrasting different woods, I prefer to pick ones that contrast naturally, not artifically with stain. Oak and maple are too similar. But since you've already made this table, I'd trim the maple inlay slightly shy of the oak, then stain and fill with a brush-on finish to the height of the oak. Then stain and seal the oak.

1. 
   SgianDubh | May 20, 2004 03:17am | #4

   Jackplane, what do you mean by saying oak and maple are 'too similar'? The oaks in general are essentially brown/reddish, ring porous and open pored, and maple is white/cream, close grained and diffuse porous.

   They are not at all the same to me. Can you expand? There may be something I'm missing. Slainte. RJFurniture

1. 
   jackplane | May 20, 2004 02:43pm | #7

   Similar in color, not pore structure. I wouldn't characterize oak as reddish/brown. My point was that woods of naturally higher color contrast would work better for what Boris wants.

1. 
   SgianDubh | May 21, 2004 09:10pm | #14

   I used the term reddish/brown to describe the range of colours typical throughout the oaks, from the white oaks ranging from English to American all the way to the red oaks. Perhaps I should have said from straw coloured (English oak) to light brown (American white oaks) to dark brown/black, (bog oak or brown oak) to reddish brown (American red oaks?)

   I see what you're getting at now and point taken, but in my experience the contrast between maple or sycamore stringing, etc., and any of the oaks is still quite marked. Mixing maple or European sycamore panels with an oak framework is really very dramatic I'd say. The materials are visually very different if juxtaposed in such a manner. Slainte.RJFurniture

3. 
   joinerswork | May 20, 2004 04:47am | #5

   Boris,

   Try potassium dichromate. Last time I saw a catalog, Garret Wade had it.

   Good luck,

   Ray

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | May 21, 2004 01:03am | #8

   No dichromate.  Should not be sold to casual users.  Does not work great.  Continues to darken for years or decades.  Not just poisonous, really extremely poisonous.  If you have any, get rid of it.  If you don't, don't start.  This stuff is no toy.  One of the worst possible chemicals you could choose.

   DANGER! STRONG OXIDIZER. CONTACT WITH OTHER MATERIAL MAY CAUSE A FIRE. CORROSIVE. CAUSES SEVERE BURNS TO EVERY AREA OF CONTACT. HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED OR INHALED. AFFECTS THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM, LIVER, KIDNEYS, EYES, SKIN AND BLOOD. MAY CAUSE ALLERGIC REACTION. CANCER HAZARD. CAN CAUSE CANCER.

   ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Health Rating: 4 - Extreme (Cancer Causing) Flammability Rating: 0 - None Reactivity Rating: 3 - Severe (Oxidizer) Contact Rating: 3 - Severe (Life) Lab Protective Equip: GOGGLES; LAB COAT; VENT HOOD; PROPER GLOVES Storage Color Code: Yellow (Reactive) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Potential Health Effects ---------------------------------- Inhalation: Corrosive. Extremely destructive to tissues of the mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract. May cause ulceration and perforation of the nasal septum. Symptoms may include sore throat, coughing, shortness of breath, and labored breathing. May produce pulmonary sensitization or allergic asthma. Higher exposures may cause pulmonary edema. Ingestion: Corrosive. Swallowing can cause severe burns of the mouth, throat, and stomach, leading to death. Can cause sore throat, vomiting, diarrhea. May cause violent gastroenteritis, peripheral vascular collapse, dizziness, intense thirst, muscle cramps, shock, coma, abnormal bleeding, fever, liver damage and acute renal failure. Skin Contact: Corrosive. Symptoms of redness, pain, and severe burn can occur. Dusts and strong solutions may cause severe irritation. Contact with broken skin may cause ulcers (chrome sores) and absorption, which may cause systemic poisoning, affecting kidney and liver functions. May cause skin sensitization. Eye Contact: Corrosive. Contact can cause blurred vision, redness, pain and severe tissue burns. May cause corneal injury or blindness. Chronic Exposure: Repeated or prolonged exposure can cause ulceration and perforation of the nasal septum, respiratory irritation, liver and kidney damage and ulceration of the skin. Ulcerations at first may be painless, but may penetrate to the bone producing "chrome holes." Known to be a human carcinogen. Aggravation of Pre-existing Conditions: Persons with pre-existing skin disorders, asthma, allergies or known sensitization to chromic acid or chromates may be more susceptible to the effects of this material.

1. 
   scooter1 | May 21, 2004 01:31am | #9

   So I guess that leaves out a dining table huh?

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | May 21, 2004 04:21am | #10

   Yup.  Toxicity threshold for potassium dichromate is 0.05 to 0.1 milligrams/cubic meter.  Take a piece the size of a grain of rice.  Cut it into 50 pieces.  One piece in a cubic yard is definitely in the "not good" category.  People really should not be selling it for woodworking use.  It used to be commonly used for photography, graphic arts and woodworking.  People know better now.  OK in a lab with proper precautions, but not in a home shop.

1. 
   scooter1 | May 21, 2004 04:34am | #11

   But what about a baby crib?

   Just kidding. :-)Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   joinerswork | May 21, 2004 06:37am | #12

   Bob,

   Whew, if I'd known all that I'd a quit using it 30 yrs ago.  I do use dust mask, and gloves when handling, and don't go there all that often.  Certainly no intent to cause anyone harm.  Thanks for the info.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | May 21, 2004 01:39pm | #13

   One of the great things about the internet is that MAterials Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are online for virtually every chemical known to man.  Well worth a couple hours of browsing.  Some of the solvents I was always nervous about turned out to be fairly safe.  Some of the stuff I had no great concerns about turned out to be very nasty. Most all chromates are bad.  If you have any old fasteners around that are coated with that yellow zinc chromate stuff, don't handle them.  Likewise, chrome pigments.  If you mix your own finishing materials, look up the pigments.  Some are surprisingly toxic.

4. 
   RMillard | May 20, 2004 02:42pm | #6

   I make a lot of federal furniture, which has inlay work as its main ornamentation. I use Deft brushing lacquer. It is much thicker than shellac, and therefore easier to control, still it is not exactly a fun project to seal the many feet of inlays typical on a piece. I wouldn’t use the chemical “stains” in this case, because maple will be effected to some degree by them and mute the effect you are after. Holly is less effected by chemical “stains”, and would be a better choice for future projects, if you decide to go that route.

   Rob Millard