I have the NYW plans for a router table. It is curious that the plans call for a top constructed of a piece of 3/4″ MDF screwed and glued to a piece of 1/2″ MDF.
Is there any reason to build this 1.25″? Why not use two pieces of 3/4″ MDF? I have a whole sheet of 3/4″ MDF in my shop, but no 1/2″ and am trying to figure out if there is any compelling reason to buy one.
Sure would appreciate help from Tom, Sarge and any other of you that have built this table.
Thanks a ton.
Robbie
Replies
It may have to do with the fact that any thicker and you have the problem of not being able to raise your bits to an acceptable height.
You could always ream out a hole for the router base.. but that seems like more trouble than buying a short sheet of MDF at the store.
Bill: Your point is well taken and that is the question. The plans call for utilizing a router plate and I have purchased a woodpecker plate designed for my 3hp Dewalt plunge router. So, in that way, I wouldn't expect a problem unless that extra 1/4" is needed for access to the router collet when changing bits.
Robbie.. I built Norm's "garage workshop" which included a flip up work table on one of the units.
The flip up doubles as a router station.. and since it is constructed the same as the rest of the workbench (2 pieces of 3/4 ply plus a 1/4 cover material) Norm demonstrates how to scribe the router base on the bottom and then freehand out 3/4" with a straight bit.
Your plunge base may compensate for this offset.
I wouldn't be using a plunge router in a table but that's another program.
Best regards,
Bill
Robbie,
I didn't build Norm's cabinet, but on mine I laminated 2 x 1" mdf for the top. I assume that you are using the router attached to a plate that is inset into the top so the thickness of the top relative to router shank length is a non-issue. I think the heavier it is the better since it only adds to the overall stability of the cabinet. I have a number of dado'ed track slots so the extra thickness is an additional reinforcement.
Doug
Robbie,
I built the NYW router table too. It seems many of us came up with tops that varied from Norm's plans without any problems. For various reasons, I used a piece of melamine with hardboard attached on the underside....works fine..
Robbie,
I also have the woodpecker lift and don't see any problem with making the top thicker. The lift never gets that close to the top anyway as it captures the motor about halfway down it's length. The top is relieved almost completely under the lift so it wouldn't interfere anyway. I also didn't make the fence slots all the way through the top as the plan calls for, I just made them through the back so I could easily remove the fence. You are really going to like this project.
I also bought the woodpecler plate for the PC OSS. I pop out the router and put the spindle sander in and the table performs like two machines in one.
Good luck with it and post some pictures along the way and of the finished project.
TDF
Thanks to all who have responded thus far. Seems that the consensus is no problem with two thicknesses of 3/4" MDF.
Tom F: It was your pictures / completed table that inspired me to get the plans and begin the project.
I wish that I was installing a PC 7518 like yours, instead of the Dewalt 625 plunge, but you make do with what you have. I just bought a Bosch 1617 EVS 2 base kit that will now be my primary handheld router, so gotta do something with the DeWalt.
Tom and others: Any changes you'd make to the design now that you've lived with it for a while? I've heard a few people talk about making the table overhang a bit wider to accomodate more clamp on capacity. Additionally, did you use gorilla glue to attach the dust collection as Norm demonstrates in the video? Where did you purchase your on / off switch? Grainger?
Personally, I was thinking of making the table the same height as my Unisaw and then "hinging" on an extension leaf that could be flipped up so that the whole thing could be used as an outfeed station. In a "mobile shop," the dedicated 4'x4'outfeed table I use now just wastes so much space and is a pain in the ars to take down and store. I need a better solution.
It's like they say here at work, "there's no reason for it, it's just our policy".
That being said here are some pic.s of mine. When people say you can't use a plunge router in a router table they don't know what there talking about. As you can see I did it and it works. I used a plunge router back in 1990 because there was no one around back then to tell me it couldn't be done. Works fine and it lasts a long time. I don't need to take it out of the table to change bits, just reach up with my right hand to hold the lock mechanism in place while loosening the collet nut , with the wrench, all from below. Also, note the improvised knob/crank handle to adjust the hieight of the bit. It cost nothing to make but time. Again, works fine and lasts a long time. Just count the number of threads per inch on the collet, and you know exactly how much you are raising the bit thru one complete revolution of the handle. I forget the tpi right now, but for example sake if it's 16 tpi, then one turn = 1/16" of an inch.
Dan019
The pic.s didn't upload, I'll try again.
Dan: Thank you for the picks. Great looking table. How thick is your top? My only concern with going with a thicker 1.5" top is being able to access the router collet without having to remove the router plate or adjusting the plunge mechanism all the way down.
What also caught my eye were the Eagles and Flyers license plates. Grew up there and was a huge Flyers fan. Was just in town on Sunday / Monday.
Hi Robbie,
The top is two pieces of 3/4" ply(A/C) because that's what I had laying around when I made it. It's covered with formica and edged with 3/4" oak strips. It's stayed flat and stable all these years, though.
Actually, I've never had a problem accessing the collet nut and if you look at an enlarged veiw of the router you'll see I just screwed and epoxied an "L" shaped peice of 1/4" stock to the large adjusting knob of the router and then attached a wooden knob on the other end. It's just a simple crank handle but it works fine. If a picture might make it easier to see, let me know and I'll take one while as it's actually being operated.
Go Flyers!
Dan019
Thanks Dan. Think I will go with the two pieces of 3/4" MDF since I have it laying around. Will be using Norm's plans, but like that you used hardwood drawer fronts. Any thing you'd change to your design after living with it for a while?
Remember as a young lad skipping school to go to the Flyer parades in the early 70s. Could still name every player on that team... funny. Also recalled being crushed watching the Oilers oust the Flyers in Game 7. Think I was in grad school then - maybe 88 or 89.
Robbie,
Glad the pictures helped. No problem using the Dewalt. I hear it's a great router. I haven't finished the dust collection yet but hope to soon. I have to run some ducting for the DC. Actually though the router motor tends to blow dust out of the table top and into the shop vac I hook up to the fence. I bought the kit from Rockler taht was recommended in the plan. Comes with the switch, the miter track and all of the fence hardware.
Like I said in the earlier post, the only thing I changed was that rather than make the fence slots through the top, I routed them out the back which allows for removing the fence more easily. I also improved the fit of the drawer fronts to the face frame. If you make them to the plan the gaps are too big.
I'm also not happy with the plug placement being in the back of the cabinet inside. I'm going to move this to the front inside so that I can more easily change the router with the sander plate.
TDF
Robbie,
A couple of things you might want to consider.....with a caveat on the front end.
I built my router table on the cheap with the intention of changing the router and router plate down the road...when I can afford it. Currently, I'm using a #621 and I stuck in a 1 gal. shop vac ...I'm experimenting attaching the DC to the 621...or the back of the fense. Also, I'm using a short 'plug in strip' so that the router and DC go on at the same time with one switch. The beauty of this setup is I can unplug and roll the entire unit out of the way....also, the cost is minimized.
Changing bits can be a pain, so I bought an offset open end boxed wrench from CMT. These are specific to your collet/router and allows you to change bits from the top. The one draw back is the hole around the collet needs to be fairly large....I need inserts and my current setup does not allow for that. Otherwise the wrench works well.
I considered setting the router as an outfeed table too....space is very tight...I'm glad I didn't. I believe that the more solid the connection between the router and the top the smoother the operation...therefore the woodpecker( or others) deliver more than just convenience. This would make one hell of a heavy flip-up outfeed table.
At the same time that I built the router table I made a drop down outfeed table...this has been a terrific addition to the shop. In addition to providing support for cuts...it also provides a great place to stack the stock while I do the joinery and shaping at the workbench or router table. It also helps with big glue-ups
Tom and BG: Thanks much.
I think the offset wrench makes great sense. The woodpecker comes with various size inserts and so popping one on or off to accomodate the wrench should not be much of an issue.
BG: Do you have any pictures of your drop down outfeed table? The design I was considering was to build the router table exactly as is, but then adding on a leaf (with miter slots dadoed ) that would essentially bridge from the router table top to the back of the Unisaw. Maybe a dedicated half size table with a drop down leaf might be more effective - just keep thinking of space....
The DW625 is OK. Used it last night. Also used a new Bosch 1617 for the first time. My word. That Bosch is so much better as a hand held and it doesn't whine so loudly as the DeWalt does. The DW definitely gets relegated to the table now!
Thanks for the follow up, guys.
Robbie,
Sorry, I don't have any pics of my drop down outfeed table...also, my shop is so small taking pics is a challange...getting far enough away to show.
I kept my outfeed table lite and cheap. I attached a 2x10-12x54" platform off the back rail on the TS and ran a couple of wood supports up from the TS mobil base (could have attached the supports to the cabinet carcas). Off of the platform I attached a piece of melamine(1/2") with a wrap around piano hinge. Under the melamine top I built a torsion box(supports about 1/3 of the melamine) to which I attached to cheap folding table legs....with adjustable feet. With the 10-12" of the platform and the 32"(about) melamine table I have a nice big surface that is fairly lite.
If I had attached a router to the melamine..it would need to be much thicker...and I'm not sure what the weight would do to the hinges.
I retrieved a 4'x12'x1/2" piece of melamine, still in its box, from a dumpster....and used it for the outfeed table and sides of the router table...did I mention I'm cheap?....lol
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