Replies

1. 
   Samson | Feb 11, 2009 07:32pm | #1

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32184&cat=1,43455,53293&ap=1

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 11, 2009 07:37pm | #2

   I would probably try the Lee Valley material posted above, but another option would be rubber drawer liner.  I have some that is very thing, not a solid mat, but kindof woven (like a router/sanding mat but much thinner) that has lots of grip to it.  Solid would probably work too.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
3. 
   davcefai | Feb 11, 2009 08:22pm | #3

   I haven't tried this myself but the rubber used for wet-suits has a a hard shiny and a soft matt face. it should do the trick.

   On the off chance that you have access to some, the rubber used for case conveyors has an incredible grip.

4. 
   md2453 | Feb 11, 2009 09:12pm | #4

   Forestgirl's suggestion for the drawer liner works very well and is cheap!  I also use 1/4 inch thick cork on some push blocks.  I've got a friend who lives in the Virgin Islands and he uses bits of the neoprene they use in wetsuits.  Your local dive shop might have some scraps.

   Madison

5. 
   BG | Feb 11, 2009 09:38pm | #5

   Woodworker,

   I made a few of wood using some mouse pads for the base...I like the thinner pads better.

1. 
   woodworker52 | Feb 12, 2009 02:14am | #6

   thanks all for your tips. I have a couple of extra mouse pads so I will try that first then if I don't like that, I will try the other ideas.

6. 
   jeffs | Feb 12, 2009 09:52am | #7

   how about just some adhesive backed fine grit sandpaper?

   Jeff

7. 
   knuts | Feb 12, 2009 04:47pm | #8

   I've used carpet underlayment, shelf liner and sandpaper over the years, but find the grout floats work best.

1. 
   h12721 | Feb 13, 2009 04:21am | #9

   The matte like forestgirl mentions and grout floats is what I use.
   Hilmar

8. 
   mike4244 | Feb 13, 2009 05:25am | #10

   Forget the grip surface, instead use this method. Bore a hole for a dowel near the back of the push block.Make sure the dowel fits snug,you should have to tap the dowel into the hole.Bore practice holes first, I use 3/8 dowels.Make the dowels long enough to protrude about 1/2" deep and stick up out of the hole about the same amount.As the dowel gets clipped off you tap it down again. After a few years you need to put in a new dowel.You can space one ,two or more dowels across the back of the pusher,depending on how wide it is.Slightly round off the end of the dowel so it doesn't splinter the underside as you tap it in.

   You never have to worry about the pusher slipping or marking the stock.You can do this with wooden pushers or the crappy plastic ones that are sold.

   mike