Replies

1. 
   Kem | Feb 15, 2004 01:17am | #1

   John, your problem could be coming from a couple of different things. Is the edge of the narrower piece absolutely square to the face? It sounds like it is. I think you are having problems with the pipe clamps forcing the pieces out of square as pressure is applied. I do this type of glue up with small bar clamps, the F-style  2 1/2" deep. Keep the clamping pressure centered, this is difficult at best with pipe clamps, as the face of the sliding pad tilts away from the pipe as  the screw is tightened.

   Kem

2. 
   gecko | Feb 15, 2004 06:45am | #2

   also, make sure your working with pieces that are exactly the same length from the opposite side.

   Custom Cabinetry and Furniture

   http://www.BartlettWoodworking.com

    

3. 
   jackiechan | Feb 15, 2004 08:43am | #3

   John,

   F-clamps are the optimum choice for this set up.  They will give you greater control over pad and pressure placement.  To maintain the square geometry between the two piece, cut yourself a series of 90 degree wood blocks (approx.) 3"x3" by 2" thick.  Place these on the inside corner of the work piece during glue-up, to maintain the proper angle.  Don't feel that you have to crush the wood with the clamps - just enough to close the joints with firm pressure.

   (See the enclosed graphic)

   If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   
1. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 15, 2004 04:21pm | #4

   Wow, thanks for the graphic! I appretiate your input it confirms my suspicions. I acually ended up using blocks and it helped, but under further inspection, I noticed that the pipe clamps (and the I beams to a lesser degree) start out at less than 90 degrees to the pipe (or I beam) and then as pressure is applied they "roll" into a more verticle position. Crude for this application. Gee, I've only been at this 15 yrs, you would think I would of figured that out by now! Always more for me to learn.

   Thanks Again!

   John

1. 
   BG | Feb 16, 2004 03:34pm | #5

   JMartinsky,

   I know exactly what your going through...I struggle with it every time.  Also, If I'm putting a draw in that cabinet..its off 1/32 too...guess which way its off...what a pain.

   As Jackie suggested, I made several 90 degree corner blocks...they help quite a bit.  I also switched to the Jorge clamps from the pipe clamps...it helps.  I use the TS top and fense in the glue up....provides a flat square surface ...I include the fense in the clamp up.  

   The facts are 1/32 is fairly small....very hard to eliminate.....I'm still working on it....   

4. 
   Napie | Feb 16, 2004 07:40pm | #6

   1/32"???  It'll swell far more than that this summer........

5. 
   jagwah | Feb 17, 2004 12:27am | #7

   Here's an idea for a no glue corner. Needs 4" thick stock for your 3" corners. May be better on smaller corners. I make these all the time. Best use of materials. Gives a quartersawn look.

    

    

   
1. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 17, 2004 12:47am | #8

   I appretiate the post, but I am a Mac driver and I don't use MS Office. Basically any other format, except wmv, I can open.

   John

1. 
   jagwah | Feb 17, 2004 01:23am | #9

   How about this? 

   
6. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 17, 2004 06:44am | #10

   I'm now using a lock miter cutter on the shaper to make almost all corners on case goods. They always come out 90* and it's easy to clamb.

1. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 17, 2004 07:48am | #11

   Do you use a power feder on the shaper? What kind of machine do you have?

   Thanks,

   John

1. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 17, 2004 08:44am | #12

   I use a 1/4 hp 3 wheel 110v power feeder from Sunhill. It's got plenty of power but I wish I'd bought a 4 wheel model. The shaper is a 25 yr or so old Rockwell 220v 3 hp which I bought used. I only use the power feeder if the wood is longer than I can put through by hand in one smooth motion, or about  24". For doing the face cut, I use a second fence which I bolt to the table, which holds the work against the main fence. The second fence is a flat piece of wood with slots cut in it for moving it in and out, and I drilled and tapped the cast iron shaper table 3/8x24 (an SAE fine thread) in a number of places in 3 rows so I can slide it tight against the work and then bolt it down.  Unless everything goes perfectly , the last 2" of the cut sometimes snipes, so I make things a little long, glue, then cut to size on the miter saw.

1. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 17, 2004 04:33pm | #13

   Thanks for the info. Typically, the peices that I am working with, max out at nine feet. Would your method still be applicable?

   John

1. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 17, 2004 09:10pm | #14

   Yes. The longer the better, because if it snipes, you only lose the last 2".  I've done lots of 8' stuff and the longest was 13' for making some  fake ceiling beams. You will need inboard and outboard support (I use roller stands) for longer pieces.

2. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 18, 2004 12:48am | #15

   That's very cool to know, gives me an excuse to look at shapers! Thanks Again!

   John

3. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 18, 2004 05:55am | #16

   Where are you? I was at Davis & Wells in L.A. last week and they had a shaper just like mine with a 3/4" and a 1" spindle for $750.00.

4. 
   JMartinsky | Feb 18, 2004 07:25am | #17

   Nice of you to think of me, but I am on the other coast. CT. That's a good price, but they'd kill me on the shipping, I suppose.

   John