Replies

1. 
   Gene_Davis | Nov 03, 2008 11:23pm | #1

   How about this.  I just buy one of these from Rockler,  the plate plus the insert.

   The plates are sold precision machined for mounting my Freud FT2000, and the insert size is about 3.75 diameter, with a 2.000 diameter hole, so I can slowly raise my router with bit through it, and get a zero clearance insert that way.

   Sound like a plan?

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   "A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."

   Gene Davis        1920-1985

1. 
   Scott_y | Nov 04, 2008 01:25am | #3

   Gene,

   You may be very disappointed in the results. Using the router bit that way will probably destroy the insert and dull the bit. Given the speed of the router, it would probably be dangerous too. It would be a lot better to just buy an insert the right size for your bit.

2. 
   BOBABEUI | Nov 04, 2008 12:15am | #2

   Gene,

   Not to familar with the Rocker plate, but I know you cannot go wrong with the WoodPeckers plate listed here..http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html

   Woodpeckers sells differnent diameter inserts for the plate also..

   Usual disclaimers apply, just a happy customer of WoodPeckers

   
   

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   Edited 11/3/2008 7:37 pm ET by BOBABEUI

3. 
   RickL | Nov 04, 2008 04:53pm | #4

   I'm curious as to why you want to do lock miters?  In 35 years in commercial shops there are few places where a lock miter is the best option. We only use it on a 3 sided fake box beam, otherwise a spline or biscuits work faster and easier. For doing a Craftsman style box leg 45 degree miters and shipping tape is much faster.   I'l have 4 legs glued up before you get the bit set up.

   We do the lock miter on a 4 sided Wadkin moulder.

1. 
   Moksha | Nov 04, 2008 06:05pm | #5

   For the most part I would have to agree with you on the Lock Miter joint; however, as I am retired in a hobby shop with more time, I have experimented with the joint and found ways to set it up quickly. First, I have set up blocks that allow me to get bit height and fence
   depth set up quickly and accurately. Second, the joints I cut are on a 5 hp shaper with a five wing double lock miter cutter. The experience of cutting them on a router table seems to me more difficult than on the shaper. Third, they work great on craftsman table legs, frames, corner bump bars on kitchen island cabinets. In addition I have used them on cabinet corners and several other things for which they are normally not used.After a lot of experimenting I now restrict their use to a few items. This is NOT an easy joint to master and it does take a lot of time to learn how to do the setup and get the material through the cutter without a lot of waste. If I were in a commercial shop as you, I too would avoid using it for anything but frame boxes and table legs.On the shaper, I have developed a double parallel fence when cutting lock miter joints; which seems to waste the least amount of stock in the process. Moksha