I called the electrician last night to come over and run a 220 line from the panel to the TS. We decided I would pick up the supplies, run the wire and he’ed do the actual hookup. He told me to get 10-3 coax, 30amp circut breakers and a matching plug/receptacle. (sorry, don’t know all the terms)
Anyhow, I have three wires comming out of the machine. I need to be able to move the TS around a bit to acommodate the sheet stock, etc. So I’m thinking about a surface mounted receptable, with a 8-10 foot extension to the saw. Does anyone have any insights to offer..is there a better config ? thanks
Replies
You need to give the motor nameplate data in order to get branch circuit sizing advice, specifically FLA (full-load amps) and phase (probably single-phase, but you mentioned 3 conductor?!), but if your electrician suggests 30A, you won't go wrong there. For a typical 3 hp single-phase machine, FLA's are generally between 12 and 18, depending on make, model, etc. of the motor. 20A is fine for most applications, but again, you didn't specify the current draw. If it's single-phase (is this in your house?), then 12-2 w/ ground for 20A, or 10-2 w/ ground for 30A is typical, and make sure the receptacle is rated for the breaker, ie don't use a 20A receptacle on a 30A circuit. If using a short extension cord as you mentioned, I'd use SO or SJ cord of the same gauge as the branch circuit, although it's probably easier and cheaper to just replace the existing cord with a longer one. You only have to buy one plug, and if you use a 30A circuit, you can use the proper plug. Let your electrician make up the cord if you're unsure; it only takes minutes if you're used to doing it. The "10-3 coax" mention is a little odd; ask him if he means 10-2 with ground, or 10-3 with ground. Your saw may have a control that requires a neutral, which is where 10-3 w/ ground comes in.
Be seeing you...
The "10-3 coax" mention is a little odd
Just guessing, but I imagine Romex was mistranslated somewhere along the line.
Donald,
Yup ! too much puter stuff...coax=puters...romex= electricity....sigh...
a mind is a terrible thing to waste....
Tdkpe,
Thanks for all the info. The TS (Grizzly 1023) has an 18 amp draw, single phase, 3 horse power. I may have screwed up the 10-3,10-2 thing, I did not have my notes from the phone call. But, what I heard you say is let him (electrician) re-wire back to the on/off switch on the machine with a plug on one end ? thanks
Close. I meant install a receptacle on the wall, either NEMA 6-30R (straight blade) or L6-30R (twist-lock style), which are both 250V, 30A rated, 2-pole with ground. Look at the plug on your saw, if it has one; if it has 3 blades, what I said is valid. If it has 4 blades (not likely), then you need 14-30R or L14-30R, and plugs to match, with 3 current carrying conductors and a ground. Install a flex cord into the saw's control, and make it as long as you think you need to reach the new receptacle from anywhere you may have the saw. Use SO or SJ cord, 10 gauge, 3-wire (oddly, SO/SJ cord counts the ground as a conductor, probably since it has it's own insulation, which is unlike Romex, which has a bare ground and counts only the current-carrying conductors, hence 10-3 cord and 10-2 w/grnd Romex). Let your electrician install the cord into the control, and put the new plug on the other end, if you're not comfortable doing it. Make sure you're using a good strain relief at the motor control, too. The whole job is not as hard as I may be making it sound. It should take him/her less than an hour, including the coffee break. Much less if you pull the cable.Be seeing you...
Tdkpe,
Just got back with all the supplies. What a pain. The big box store had several receptables without the matching plugs. I ended up with a locking type, 30A 2 pole which would seem to fit my needs best..saw being moved around and such.. Finding a Siemens 30amp 2pole circuit breaker was also a pain. Surprised there is not more standardization in the electrical area. Oh well, gonna call the electrician now....bribe with apple pie to come over. Thanks for your help
You're welcome. Let us know how it works out.Be seeing you...
Tdkpe,
He came (the electrician) at about 9:30 this morning and was gone by 10:00. Everything went swimmingly. I let him turn it on for the first time.
The saw is great; very powerful and very smooth. Perhaps the best one Grizzly ever made....lol. Lets see, now all i need is $4-500 in blades, $200 in dado set, $130 in tenon cutter and a few jigs. Thanks again
Hi BG,
I did just what you're talking about around 3 months ago. I have a TINY shop. I installed a 220 receptacle and had an electrician hook it into the box.
My 110/220 table saw and 110/220 6" jointer came configured for 110. I called Jet to make sure I was rewiring things right, they steered me, and it's probably one of the best 2-hour investments I ever made. I have about 10-15 feet of Romex with a matching plug...works fine!
Good luck!
lp
Larry,
I gave myself about 10' of romex..and Grizzly gave me about 6'...so together I'm all set...I think. thanks
OK, I'm a little ignorant here: what makes 220v better than 110v anyway? I have several machines that can go either way, but I keep them on 110v since they seem to work just fine.
there is a pretty good thread which answers your questions in the Archives. Do a search on "Upgrade Tablesaw to 220 volt".
Thanks, I've read that thread and decided that I'll leave mine alone since I have no problem w/popping breakers or bogging down in thicker stock.
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