I have been refurbishing (or rather resurrecting) a 1985 Makita 2030N planer/jointer that has been stored in a barn for the past 25 years. Can we say rust? After I freed-up the planer table, I powered it up and all seemed fine. I then proceeded to de-rust, clean, lube and go through the machine, sending infeed and outfeed rollers to Western Roller for recovering, ordering new blades etc. When I finally had everything put back together, I tried to fire it up. Nothing! Not even a hint of life. I checked the cord and it has continuity, the switch seemed functional (at least the current turned on and off) and the brushes seemed fine. I’m perplexed. Anyone encountered anything similar?
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Replies
You say you "powered it up and all seemed fine" does that mean it ran at least once?
PS you have 2 posts on this I suggest you delete one to simplify helping you for everyone otherwise everything will get split between 2 posts.
Yes, it ran when I powered it up. Thanks for the heads up, I’ll delete one of the posts.
Can you spin the motor manually?
If it ran before and you did nothing to the motor. I have to suspect a couple of things may have happened.
The motor stopped on a bad area of the commutator and the brushes aren't making contact. Try turning the shaft a quarter turn and see if it starts up again.
Some of the cleaning or lubrication fluids you used has gotten into the motor and is effecting the electrical continuity internally.
The brushes are fooling you they may look fine but if they have worn too short to make consistent contact they could still be the problem. Sometimes you can stretch the springs a bit to increase the pressure and create better contact.
Universal motors like that tool has are relatively simple, no Capacitors or anything to fail and keep it from starting. So if you have power to the brushes and it's not starting I think the problem has to lie with the connection between the commutator and the brushes.
This link gives pretty good directions on how to test the brushes electrically, visual inspections can be misleading if you don't know what the new brushes should look like.
https://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-major-appliances6.htm#:~:text=Brushes%20can%20be%20checked%20visually%20or%20tested%20with,the%20motor%20over%20to%20tap%20out%20the%20brushes.
That monster used a universal motor? Ay caramba. Seems like it was asking a lot, even in a new machine.
Not at all. It's a hell of a machine actually. I owned its cousin the Hitachi F1000A great machine limited only by its 6" jointer width, my son is still using it. It too had a universal motor and would scream like a banshee but would cut wood all day long.
PS don't forget the ear protection wit this one.
I owned the Hitachi version, planer/only P100 (I owned a Powermatic 60 8” jointer at the time). I agree, what a great tool it was. Beautifully surfaced wood, very loud machine. I liked it better than my DeWalt 735. Mine went through a lot of brushes over the years. I’ve seen that there are helical heads available for it too.
Thanks for your reply.
Yes, the motor spins freely and although I can’t say for sure that some fluid did not get in, I was pretty careful around the motor. The motor housing itself was in pretty good shape and didn’t require more than a light ragging.
I did order a new set of brushes yesterday as that seemed pretty cheap insurance that they were not the issue but probably won’t see them for a week.
Thanks for the link and I’ll test the brushes but it’ll require a little head scratching as there is more than two leads coming from the switch.
One thing I neglected to mention (although I can’t imagine it is a factor) is that infeed and outfeed rollers are not currently in the machine. They appear to be just mechanical in nature but…
Thanks again for your feedback.
This machine has a rather elaborated switch and wiring diagram . Troubleshooting normally starts at the power source and ends at the motor so you need a way to probe the connections at each steps or go straight to the motor wires and check for voltage, that will take the switch or the motor out of the equation. You can find the wiring diagram for your specific machine with google , the one I have seen are not simple on/off switches.
Thanks for all the responses, feedback and suggestions. The new brushes arrived today and the machine lives again. I think the grooves the brushes rode in were a little gummed up and prevented them from making good contact.
Thanks
One additional question concerning replacement planner knives. Part number is 793323-0 but only replacement I can find is a Freud 12 1/2” knife but most the reviews are less than complimentary with the biggest concern being a concave cutting edge. Does anyone know of an alternate replacement?
The original blades are Japanese laminated tool steel. You won't find quality like them anywhere any more. DON'T TOSS THEM! Find someone who can sharpen them or better yet, invest in the Makita planer blade sharpener and you will have a very nice setup.
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