Hey guys, I recently bought a new band saw for starting woodworking. I got a Jet 10 inch (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Jet-10-in-Open-Stand-Bandsaw-714000/305444413). The first thing I did after getting everything installed was put a new blade on, a 67.5 inch long and 1/8 inch wide for more detail cutting. My problem is that I can’t seem to get enough tension on it even after following all the instructions. I’ve got it to where it’s tracking just fine but even after cranking it all the way down it doesn’t feel like the tension is high enough to cut.
Any suggestions or thoughts?
Replies
Was the factory original blade working fine before you removed it?
Ignore what's printed on the box the new blade came in. If you physically compare the original JET blade with your new blade, are they the same length?
Do you have the tension release lever in the "tighten" position?
Mike
I'm positive the tension release lever is in the right position. I looked at that several times.
I'll have to check the replacement blade to the original. I never did try it with the original blade because I knew I didn't want that large of a blade. I was careful to buy the exact length but I'll give it a look tomorrow. Thanks!
It sounds like your blade is too long.
It would be wise to compare the blades and also to try the OEM blade too in case there is a fault with your machine.
I note you say 'cranking it all the way it down' - could this be the problem? When you look at your top wheel, it should go higher when increasing tension, not lower - may be just the way your crank is arranged, but check you are actually turning the tension dial the correct way. It will not hurt if you try the other and the blade gets slacker.
The correct tension is usually when pushing sideways on the blade moves it about 1/4 inch.
How hard to push though is the thing - just enough for the tip of your fingernail bed to blanche. If the whole thing is white, you might want to back off a bit...
So the blades look pretty equal in length (and I can get the original blade to tension correctly). The original is a pretty thick blade, I'd guess maybe 1/2, the one I'm trying to use is 1/8. Any other thoughts or adjustments to try?
My only other thought right now is to try getting the actual Jet replacement blade that's listed as an exact fit in the manual. My only hesitation is that it's a $45 blade vs. the $10 I paid for the powertec blade with the same measurements.
Rob, I didn't see your reply before I posted. The Jet model I have actually has a rough measure of tension with an approximate placement for the size blade. I can definitely see that measure and the wheel going up and down.
I appreciate the comment about how to test the tension with a finger. The way it's set right now it's moving maybe an inch without much exertion from me.
I'm wondering if, with a blade that narrow, the blade may be pressing into the wheel tire and not letting it get tight enough.
Sometimes you get what you pay for. Order a 1/8" blade from Jet or a good dealer like Highland Hardware to eliminate the blade as a variable.
It is a fact that most bandsaw do not have accurate tension gauges and most blades are under tensioned. I found this out personally when after reading this article and purchasing a proper tension gauges myself, what I thought was properly tensioned wasn't even close.
I am not posting this to tell you to go out and buy a $500 tension gauge, but to simply to enlighten you that what you think is tensioned may not be.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/11/09/setting-bandsaw-blade-tension
If you search the archives you will find other articles on building shop made tension gauges as well as a review of the EZ-tension gauge which is a low tech inexpensive tool that I found helpful with smaller carbon steel blades it just doesn't work with bi-metal or 1" carbide tip blades like I use.
Another tip I picked up in my 61 years is that most small hobbyist saws can't come close to over tensioning a blade so crank it up.
You’re probably stretching the blade or imbedding it in the tire.
Why are you using such a narrow blade?
Thanks for the thoughts.
I'm using a narrower blade to do more scrolling/ intricate type work.
If the blade is getting embedded in the tire is there anything I can do about that? This is a brand new machine and a little frustrating that it's doing this right out of the box.
I think my next move is to buy the actual jet brand blade and see if that makes a difference.
I'm skeptical that the blade embedding in the tire is the problem tension is tension it either has it or it doesn't. An ⅛" thick rubber tire is going to stop compressing pretty quickly and the blade will be tensioned properly. The only drawback to it embedding is possible premature tire wear but I'm even skeptical about that happening as long as the blade isn't slipping.
I'm going to suggest you shift your focus before ordering another blade.
You say it "feels" like it doesn't have enough tension to cut, even when it's crank all the way down. Are you saying that with the tension gauge on the saw reading ¾"(I'm assuming the max blade size for that saw) the blade is flexing too much to cut? That defies logic and I think the conclusion that it's a tension problem has kept you from discovering the real problem.
I'm going to assume you are fairly new to bandsaw. So here is a checklist I recommend you run through.
Is the blade inside out? It is real easy to uncoil a bandsaw blade and have the teeth point up not down. On most blades it is easy to see this but on an ⅛" fine tooth blade I could see it being missed.
Are you guides positioned properly? All bandsaw have two sets of three guides of some type. Roller Bearings, Ceramic Blocks and Composite Blocks are the most common. These guides need to be properly adjusted every time you change your blade. If they are not your saw cannot perform properly. It is also important, especially with an ⅛" blade that these adjustments be made with top guide in its proper position which when using narrow blades should be as close as possible to the stock, no more than ¼" above the stock to support that piece of piano wire as much as possible. If you adjust them at another height you may find that the guides support doesn't move perfectly parallel and the settings could be off when you move the upper guide to the proper position. The rear thrust block/bearing should not contact the blade until the cut is started, but the lightest pressure should bring the blade in contact otherwise the blade could be flexing under the pressure of the cut. The side blocks need to have the slightest of contact with the blade without pushing the blade out of line and without contacting the teeth, not easy to do with an ⅛" blade.
These same adjustments need to done with the lower guide blocks as well.
When you write you cranked all the way down, you mean you turned the tension adjustment knob on top all the way up ?
Thanks for the suggestions:
Yes, I double checked that the teeth were pointing the right way (down). I've made that mistake before!
I made the adjustments to the guides as recommended. It certainly helped some. I've never had to adjust it from scratch like this before so it was helpful, the owner's manual only says how to adjust it and not where it should be adjusted to.
And to answer another question about cranking it all the way down, I've tightened the tension as far as it can go (to the 3/4 marker on the tension gauge) and it still feels loose.
It can cut but still feels like it's flexing way too much. I do have another saw I've used to compare to and they don't feel the same at all.
I believe that with everything I've read (from here and elsewhere) it's likely the aftermarket blade. I did try ordering the official Jet replacement blade and we'll see how that works out.
Just an FYI your guides should be adjusted everytime you change a blade.
You could go on forever getting suggestions from folks from a distance. You might be wise to simply have a local experienced woodworker stop by, get hands on, and resolve this for you. Contact a local woodworking club, high school or community college shop instructor or staff from a nearby woodworking supply store like Rockler or Woodcraft. Ask friends and neighbors....there's bound to be a woodworker in your community who would be happy to help, maybe for free, maybe for a small hourly charge.
Agreeing with @TboneTim.
I found this though which may be interesting:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/01/28/tool-review-eztension-bandsaw-tension-gauge
https://www.eztension.com/buy-one-now/eztension-bandsaw-tension-gauge
And even less expensive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sW-afPosTaI
https://www.in-kleind.com/inkleind-bandsaw-tensioning
I'm very skeptical . . .
Skeptical in general? Something specific? If you're referring to the in-kleined app, worst case you threw away all of $5.99, that's about the price of one can of craft-brewed beer. :-)
I think there are far too many variables, and potential problems, to use sound to tension a bandsaw.
So I got the actual replacement blade from jet today. Put it on and within 5 minutes I had it adjusted, tensioner, and cutting properly. So I guess my lesson is to stay away from cheap aftermarket blades. When looking at the two blades side by side it was clear the aftermarket blade was longer. And it was easy to see why it wouldnt tension properly.
Thanks for all the thoughts and comments here. They helped me adjust the guides properly very quickly when I put them on.
Happy it worked out.
It always makes sense to have on hand a few blades of different widths and tooth styles, and a few extra of your very favorite blade.
Good to hear that you found the problem, we used to have a welder as part of a bandsaw to weld broken blades, they don’t break anymore but there was a time when they did. So the blades got shorter with time. You don’t need to buy from the bandsaw manufacturer, he does not make blades, he buys them from places like where I buy mine. https://tufftooth.com/product-category/bandsaw-blades/
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