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I decided to seal the bottom a card table I’m working on. After several days, the bottom has cupped forcing the draw to bind against the top of the draw opening.
What I did: I stained the bottom side of the wood and sealed both the top and bottom with several coats of shellac. After each step of applying the stain and then the shellac, I returned the piece to the living room where it has lived for 10 months unfinished (I have a forgiving girl friend). Now that it has a finish, it’s started to bow.
How best to proceed to resolve this and minimize future warping? Should I strip the finish using a card scrapper and leave both sides bare?
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What kind of wood is this?
*The bottom is a four piece assembly. The front and two side pieces are mahogany, which surrounds, on three sides, a piece of hard maple. I know, different wood with diff. characteristics. It seemed stable prior to finishing. The card table was asembled more than 10 months ago without problems. I'm just now getting around to put a finish.
*I’m guessing that your problem stems from staining the underneath side, but not the top (if I’m reading you correctly). I would clamp it flat for a while, and hope for the best. If possible you might be able to batten it flat, just leave room for the batten to move with the expansion or contraction. I’ve made quite a few card tables, and the cardinal rule is, what you do to one side, you must do to all sides, even then some minor warping has to be expected and tolerated. Many original period examples show significant warping, especially those with baize playing surfaces.
*Rob,For one reason or another I didn't stain the top side of the bottom piece (where the draw rail is attached). It's all about learning.Could you suggest how to create the baton that would assist with holding it flat. How wide and how many batons would you suggest. The area that was effected ~ 18" wide by 17" deep. The balance of the bottom is sufficiently attached to legs and side aprons holding if relatively flat. BTW - I've seen a few of your card tables in the Gallery. Very nice.thanks,Steve
*Hold on a minute, Steve!Most card tables are one piece top with four piece skirt. Finish all sides of all pieces with a balanced finish.However ... you mention the top side of the bottom piece, as if there is an enclosure suspended beneath the "real" top, that is housing a drawer and it is what is cupped (the working table top is not cupped)! If it were me, I'd remove the drawer, invert the table, lay a damp towel on the outside/cupped surface, until it swells and the panel is cupped the other way, remove the towel and apply a similar finish to the newly cupped side, which will be approaching flatness if your timing is correct. With both sides sealed alike, it should approach internal equilibrium, that is, unless there are other stresses involved. This method has worked well on warped antiques, as long as the hide glue line is not compromised.John Adams
*Steve,Without seeing the table, I can’t really say how to proceed, so what I’m about say may not work. I would pick a strong wood for the battens, something like ash, birch or oak. Fasten one on each side of the drawer opening, running across the grain of the top. Cut slots for the screws, at the front and back so the batten will let the top move as it expands and contracts, but still holding it flat. The screw in the center can be placed in just a hole. Unless the warp is severe it won’t take a very large batten to hold it flat, something on the order of a 1 x 2, with the 1” edge facing the top. You might be able to make drawer guides that act as battens. In the future, if you need to stain one side but not the other, wipe the unstained side with paint thinner or distilled water (depending on the vehicle of the stain you’re using) at the same time you’re staining the other surface. This will keep the top flat.
*John, Rob,John is on the money. It's not the top that warped, rather the bottom enclosure that the draw fits in. I didn't have a proper name for this piece of the card table assembly and I created some confusion.As for the warped bottom, I think Rob was correct that it warped because only one side was stained and left to dry for several days before applying shellac. I didn't realize it till I inserted the draw. I've let is sit 4 days and the warp has worked most of itself out. The draw runs smoothly again and the gap around the draw looks great. Time will tell if the wood stays stable.I appreciate the suggestions.
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