Replies

1. 
   gulfstar | May 15, 2022 08:22pm | #1

   West system 105 resin with slow cure catalyst.

2. 
   _mj_ | May 15, 2022 08:24pm | #2

   Titebond extend, or a slow set epoxy.

3. 
   bilyo | May 15, 2022 08:33pm | #3

   Hide glue would be a good choice for slow set up time. However, if you plan ahead and organize your glue up by modules, you should be able to do it with some of the other faster glues if you prefer.
   I wouldn't recommend epoxy due to how messy it can be and the amount of time and trouble measuring and mixing. From a slow cure standpoint, it is certainly a possible choice.

4. 
   beasleysevin | May 15, 2022 08:46pm | #4

   I use Titebond Extend when I need lots of open time. It is very viscous so you can't treat it like regular Titebond. But it gives plenty of time for complex glue ups.

5. 
   Badger1805 | May 15, 2022 08:47pm | #5

   I've built many mission-style pieces having numerous mortise and tenons, and until recently I always did the glue-up in several stages, using regular PVA glue (i.e., Titebond). It's less stressful to glue a large piece up in stages, if the design allows it.

   The last time I built a small mission-style bed, I used Titebond Liquid Hide Glue for its' longer open time, and I am very happy with the results. It is also quite easy to clean off with water, either right after the clamps are set up or even after the glue is dry, especially if you pre-finish the components, which I would highly recommend. It's a lot easier to finish a headboard having numerous slats before it's assembled.

   I personally have never considered using epoxy for a woodworking project to be used indoors - it's more expensive, difficult to clean up, etc. It does have the advantage of better gap filling, but that's only necessary with poorly fitted joinery.

6. 
   jharveyb | May 15, 2022 09:59pm | #6

   I have not tried Titebond Extend. I use long set epoxy for difficult glue-ups, as it is very slippery, and helps the joints go together easily. It is also possible to pull the joint back apart easily if there is need. The problem I have seen with water based glues is that the joint can get stuck most of the way closed as the water in the glue swells the wood. I typically pre-finish all surfaces around the glue joints, so clean-up is not a problem. Squeeze out just pops off. I sometimes also put masking tape along the glue joint for further protection, esp. along the outside edge of the tenon shoulder on the show surface.

7. 
   joeinca | May 16, 2022 02:30am | #7

   Consider using Old Brown Glue (see Bob Van Dyke’s FWW article here: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2022/01/03/woodworkers-guide-to-glue ). Although it requires extended clamping time, OBG is easy to use, has long working time and is easy to clean up with cold water.

   I just recently used Old Brown Glue to assemble a piece that required simultaneous assembly of eight wedged through-mortise joints. I believe that glue-up took over 30 minutes. Because of OBG’s long working time, I had no difficulty inserting wedges in all of the joints.

1. 
   stevieray | May 16, 2022 10:26am | #13

   I too use Old Brown Glue for its long open time--like forever. And if you really mess up, you can take it all apart, clean with water and toothbrush, and start over.

   You do need to heat it up first. I've used Titebond's hide glue as well, without heating--it poured easily.

   As far as I know both require long clamp times, like 24 hours. But otherwise both are as easy to use as regular Titebond or similar product.

8. 
   rob_ss | May 16, 2022 03:40am | #8

   My go-to in such circumstances is polyurethane. Much cheaper than epoxy and has a nice long open time (20+ minutes)
   The cleanup is super-easy too but squeezeout is inevitable.
   Gorilla Glue is about the least strong of all the wood glues on the market but it is totally waterproof and plenty strong enough. Anything put through enough stress to cause a properly glued joint to fail is munted anyway. Even Elmer's glue is strong enough to hold well fitting joints.

9. 
   john_c2 | May 16, 2022 03:56am | #9

   Liquid hide glue for me. I wouldn't even think about anything else.

10. 
    lordulrich | May 16, 2022 07:05am | #10

    I use a lot of titebond extend in most cases a glue up is the last thing I do in the shop for a day so the long cure time is not an issue and I don't like the stress of rushing against the clock. Also do a dry fit with clamps at least once to figure out how you will clamp it.

11. 
    Jkatzowitz | May 16, 2022 07:29am | #11

    I'm a recent convert to Liquid Hide Glue. Besides the long open time and the easy clean up, the "slippery" nature of the glue makes fitting tight joinery a pleasure.

1. 
   joeleonetti | May 16, 2022 01:36pm | #16

   When I need a bit more open time that what I can get from TiteBond 3, I use TiteBond's liquid hide glue. There was a piece I had made not that long ago where I glued and clamped something upside down on a mortise and tenon for a small door frame using Titebond's liquid hide glue. I'm guessing that it was 10 to 15 min after I had applied the glue. I was able to take it apart easily and put it in the proper diection. I don't think I would have been able to have accomplish that with the TiteBond 3 I use at the same amount of time. I have been happy with the open time of Titebond's liquid hide glue.

12. 
    DRBWWing | May 16, 2022 09:59am | #12

    Hot hide glue doesn't have as long an open time as you think.

1. 
   stevieray | May 16, 2022 10:32am | #14

   I'm confused by some posters saying "liquid" hide glue. I think they mean the prepared kind made by Titebond and by Old Brown Glue and perhaps other companies. That's as opposed to the powdered kind that you have to mix with water and cook in a special heating appliance.

   The prepared products have a long open time. The kind you have to mix has only 60 seconds or so. Both kinds can be disassembled using heat and water. Both are easy to clean up and accept finishes.

1. 
   Badger1805 | May 16, 2022 12:19pm | #15

   I think you are correct - most people talking about liquid hide glue probably mean the "cold" type you pour right out of the bottle, like that made by Titebond. I've never used Old Brown Glue - I didn't know that you have to warm it up before using it to reduce the viscosity, but I would still consider that to be cold liquid hide glue. BTW, the person who developed/markets Old Brown Glue, W. Patrick Edwards, has an antique repair business in San Diego and has done some incredible marquetry work.

   Because of its' short open time, hot hide glue is very useful for hammer veneering and marquetry work. It's also used to repair antiques in a responsible, reversible manner.

13. 
    chiwoodworker | May 16, 2022 11:21pm | #17

    Titebond III
    Been using it for years. Im a hobbiest so I'm not always fast or organized. Glue has been very forgiving. I recently made 4ft wide rolling bookshelves. The base carcasses were full of made from 2 end pieces with 5 dados each and the 5 horizontal pieces mating into the ends and into each other. Glueing them on their side in a luke warm garage. Had to do it all at once because of the design. Titebond III was forgiving enough for this hack to build something complicated. Granted I did dry fit everything. Which I thought was standard pratice until I started lurking the forums.
    Anyhow for what it's worth I have yet to run into a situation where it didn't work.
    Titebond III 😆

    
14. 
    ron_ford | Dec 19, 2022 05:43pm | #18

    This is probably a bit off topic, and somewhat ludicrous - but I just happened across a humorous discussion on Lost Art Press (titled "Hide Glue from the Gas Station" posted on Dec 15) about gelatin (particularly from gummy bears, but also from the baking supplies aisle in the grocery store). Kind of an inane discussion, but entertaining, and maybe useful in some universe....

15. 
    Cayman | Dec 19, 2022 10:39pm | #19

    I too am a hide glue convert. Most people don’t realize but if you have an antique that belonged to your great aunt or your grandmother it’s almost certainly assembled with hide glue - it was the only real glue that existed for centuries.

    The liquid versions, noted above, are a giant leap over the older powder. I’ve used Old Brown and Titebond and I bring a pan of very hot water to the shop and drop the bottle in ~10 minutes before I start the glue-up. It aids the flow, especially with Old Brown.

    The real beauty of hide is that it doesn’t affect the finish applied after. For example, I make boxes and I can’t always get the glue out of the inside corners. If I use regular PVA and wipe it with a wet cloth while still wet it will affect an oil finish. Yes, I can wait and ‘chisel’ it off when dry but if I use hide I can remove the excess with a wet cloth as soon as I apply the clamps and it will not affect the finish.

    Kind of middle-age magic. Wish we had more of that.

    I’ve read that hide glue definitely has a best before date although I haven’t experienced any problem. I keep the bottle in the fridge - another reason for the hot water treatment.

16. 
    sporergust | Jul 13, 2023 09:50am | #20

    For a project with a lot of mortise and tenon joints like a chest of drawers, a good glue option would be a slow-setting PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue. One popular slow-setting PVA glue is Titebond Extend. It has a longer open time than regular Titebond glue, but still dries clear and is easy to sand. Another option is Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, which has a longer open time than Titebond II and is also waterproof.

17. 
    PhilR | Jul 13, 2023 01:13pm | #21

    For all those worried about heating the liquid hide glue(s), you don't need a glue pot - just buy a coffee cup warmer from Amazon for $12.00, that and an old coffee cup is all you need to get things flowing.

1. 
   joeleonetti | Jul 13, 2023 02:56pm | #22

   When I wanted a bit more flow in the TiteBond Liquid Hide Glue, I've been quite successful just getting a bucket and filling it with hot tap water (think the anti-scalding setting on water heater is either 120 or 140 F) and letting the bottle sit in it for 5ish minutes. Seems to work quite well. When done and the water has cooled in the bucket, I go pour it on some flowers in the back yard.