Everyone,
I’m making shelves for two built-ins I completed in my dining room. The shelves will be about 12 inches deep and 30 inches long. 3/4 inch plywood with poplar edge on the front. The shelves will hold a decorative plate/wine glasses, etc. Nothing heavy. I’m inserting tempered glass in the middle of the shelf so the top cabinet lights will pass through it to the lower shelf. Any thoughts on how much plywood I need to leave around the perimeter of the glass so the shelf does not sag? I have to order the glass ahead of time and I need to specify the size.
Thanks for your suggestions.
FR
Replies
Me, I'd ask the glass shop. Using tempered, you should be able to do that without any ply at all, but the glass guys will know for sure and will help spec thickness as well.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Mike,
For looks purposes, these shelves have to appear from the front to be wood. We only want the glass to pass the light. Otherwise, we want them to look like wood shelves.
FR
I think the strongest construction in that case would be a solid glass shelf that's a couple of inches shallower than the front-to-back depth of the case, coupled with a wood strip at the front. You could set the front edge of the glass into a rabbet in the wood strip, or something similar.
The reason that I say this is that any design where the glass occupies less than the full side-to-side width of the case has a built-in "hinge" at the glass/wood transition, which is inevitably going to be the weakest link.
-Steve
"For looks purposes, these shelves have to appear from the front to be wood. "
Yeah, I got that. My point, albeit poorly expressed, was that the glass should be strong enough to support itself without any help from the wood -- so the wood can be as thick, or thin, as you wish.
I still think a chat with the glass shop will be helpful.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks Mike. I'll explain to the glass guy what I'd like to do and see if they have any concerns. I agree the glass should probably be able to stand on its own - especially if I add a mid-support bracket onto the back of the cabinet- with a wood strip along the front.
FR
FR, I would likely route out the center leaving a couple of inches of bearing at each end/then route a rabbit to receive the glass. great idea you have there. I did something like that for a back bar in a restaurant I did, the shelves where 12" deep by 48"long and the glass was 8"by 42".they have had no problems in 12 years and they are loaded with liquor bottles.
Dan
You can do it with wood frames that the glass sets down into , a 2" frame will work so if you cut out the plywood the same idea would work fine .
For me cutting the plywood out for the glass then edge banding the face and possibly the cutout around the glass , is more work for a lesser look .
You can use glass of the proper thickness but the wood frame will eliminate or largely reduce any deflection more so on longish spans .
regards dusty
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