Replies

1. 
   mikeddd | Aug 30, 2009 07:45pm | #1

     I have the Freud 508 I think and on my old contractor saw I had the same trouble maybe not as bad as you are describing, installing was allways easy, but I would have to wiggle them as you say individually to get them off and yes it was a PITA, I think my chippers where the worst. The cabinet saw I have now doesn't seem to be as bad it has a 5/8" arbor also but must be slightly smaller than the one on my old saw. I never use the spacers because that made it just about impossible to get off on my old saw. Sorry I know this is of no help to you in getting yours off your saw.

2. 
   roc | Aug 30, 2009 08:09pm | #2

   I don't spend much time with my table saw. I have the Freud dado set and like it.

   I spend allot of time with machine/fit ups. Here is what I would recommend:

   • Look close at the shaft on the saw. Are there any burs or dings on it maybe a carbide dinked it and raised some metal ? Using a fine flat file take the dink down to the original diameter of the shaft. Then run some emory or wet or dry sand paper over it to smooth it out. Using this method it is nearly impossible to remove enough metal to effect the precision of the shaft.

   • Look very close ( magnification ) at the holes in the dado blade components. Are there any ragged edges that should be chamfered at the edge of the hole ? Again file and paper the surfaces.

   • Test each component one at at time for a slip fit on the shaft. If one tends to hang as it slides on then look further for a problem. If none found you can emory paper the hole evenly all around ( or use the more aggressive blue abrasive in this case; can get in rolls at auto / mechanic supply ). The difference between a slip and a bind can be a very very small amount that can be corrected with the blue abrasive.

   Alternatively if you find one or more that hang you could take them to a saw blade shop and have them " reamed " to correct the inside diameter.

   • Put a straight edge across each chipper; could be one got twisted if put on and tightened when improperly piled up on another component of the stack.

   • If your shims are damaged I think you can order another shim kit Feud or other brand.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 30, 2009 09:25pm | #3

   There is a reason for that. The arbor hole is machined for a tight fit. It is to ensure that the dado set cuts a flat bottomed groove. If the blades or the chippers have room to move, they will not cut in concentric circles and the groove bottom with show the teeth marks from each chipper.

   That said, you can use some 400 grit carbide Wet & Dry sandpaper and lightly sand the inside of the blade and chipper arbor holes slightly. Keep trying the blade on the arbor and stop as soon as it slips on with only the slightest amount of resistance. If it goes on loose and easy, you've gone too far.

   Howie.........
4. 
   robertmc | Aug 31, 2009 05:32am | #4

   I have the same issue with my Freud dado set. Tight tolerances seems to make sense. I just find I have to gently remove as it seems harder to remove than put on. I thought about coating the inside rim first with a little wax but really it has not been a hassle - just a little patience is required for me to remove.

5. 
   Knotscott | Aug 31, 2009 04:48pm | #5

   My Infinity Dadonator set was the same way, and they said pretty much the same thing Howard noted....it's to ensure accuracy, but some light sanding or very light filing can loosen it up some.

6. 
   Dave45 | Aug 31, 2009 05:02pm | #6

   Sounds like you're fighting a manufacturing tolerance issue and the solution is to "tweak" one of the components (arbor or dado set) to reduce the conflict.

   Personally, I would leave the arbor alone and take the dado set to a machine shop and have them ream the dado holes out by ~0.0005" (half a thousandth of an inch). If that isn't enough, they can take a bit more. I definitely wouldn't try hand sanding or filing since it won't be as uniform as machining.

1. 
   montec24 | Aug 31, 2009 07:27pm | #7

   Thanks all. I know the tolerances have to be tight, this seems just a little to tight. I think some of the problem may be the arbor as the inside blades are harder than the outside ones. I did try once with sandpaper (320) but I think I will give it another go.  I do worry about taking to much or them not being balanced but I can't use it as it is.  I can't see taking a $100 set to a machine shop and hope it doesn't resort to that. I have had other dado's on other saws and while they were snug this is really snug, I even worry that I will screw up the threads when taking them off.

    

   Thanks

   Dana  

    

   "Seen Better, done worse!"

1. 
   Dave45 | Sep 01, 2009 02:56am | #8

   If you have (and know how to use) a good micrometer, you might take a couple of readings on your saw arbor. It might be instructive.If it were me, I would look into the machine shop option. I doubt if it would cost much and it might fix your problem.Another lesson I learned about dado sets is to toss the steel shims in the recycle bin and use the magnetic "rubber" shims. Mine are like thin refrigerator magnets and stick to the dado blades/cutters so they don't try to slip into the arbor threads and get things cocked when you make up the stack. They're the greatest thing since sliced bread. - lol

1. 
   mikeddd | Sep 01, 2009 05:47am | #10

     Hi Dave

   Where did you get the rubber shims at?

   Mike

1. 
   Dave45 | Sep 01, 2009 06:11am | #11

   I don't think that they're actually rubber, but they're the same material as refrigerator magnets. My set has [email protected]", [email protected]", and [email protected]". With steel shims, it was a struggle to keep them from slippng while making up my stack (licking them is unsanitary and encourages rust!! - lol), and I often had to redo it when the stack wobbled. With the magnetic shims, it only takes one try.I got mine at Post Tool here in San Jose. They closed their doors last year, but I'm sure that other woodworking stores would have them.

   
2. 
   AlanWS | Sep 01, 2009 07:37pm | #15

   Grizzly has the magnetic shims:
   http://grizzly.com/products/Magnetic-Shim-Set-5-8-Bore/G6099

3. 
   mikeddd | Sep 01, 2009 10:57pm | #16

    Thanks Dave and Alan.

   Mike

4. 
   montec24 | Sep 02, 2009 02:41am | #17

   Thanks again everyone, I will give the Emery cloth a try adn let you know how it worked out. Probably won't be until next week though at this point.
   Thanks
   Dana 

    

   "Seen Better, done worse!"

2. 
   Carya | Sep 01, 2009 04:58am | #9

   I would use at least 600 grit and move in and out (not around). You might have just roughed up the surface with 320. It would be even more difficult to slide them on and off the arbor.When you put any blades on the arbor, try not to overtighten. Its easy to do but you don't need to put much muscle into a 10" long wrench on the blade nut or you'll wreck the threads.Aside from that, have you tried turning them with the threads when they get stuck?If that doesn't work, why don't you take them to a machine shop, show them the blades, and ask them to mill you a new set of blades with bigger holes. Makes just as much sense as going there for any other reason. ;)Andy

3. 
   charlesm | Sep 01, 2009 03:56pm | #13

   Dana,The tolerances on our blade and dado component bores is extremely tight (for 5/8" bores it is 0.6250" +0.0007/-0.0000) and in the past Delta has been known to keep a similarly tight tolerance on their arbors. Theirs are saws I most often hear of with this issue. I recommend a light buffing of the bores with fine emery cloth as it will take very little material removal to make a big difference. You wouldn't notice this with saw blades as they typically have much thinner plates.
   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 01, 2009 06:10pm | #14

   >> I did try once with sandpaper (320)Be sure to use a Wet & Dry sandpaper or a emery cloth. Standard sandpaper will not have much effect on the steel in saw blades. I prefer 400 grit rather than 320. Work slowly. You don't want it to become too sloppy.Howie.........

7. 
   troys | Sep 01, 2009 07:03am | #12

   I had the same problem on with a Freud Super dado on my jet contractors saw, I cleaned the blades with laquer thinner, it had a clear coating of some sort and it made a big difference. The blade still fits tight but is much better, try that before you do anything else.

   Troy