The top of the black walnut table is 36″wide at the ends and varies in the middle because the pieces were cut from the same trunk, although the max width is 45″. The length will be 84″ and the thickness is a full 2″. The seam has been epoxied and internally bolted on the underside in 6 places along the same. The rails are expected to be 1 and 1/2 ” thick tapering from 5″ at the joint with the legs to 3 and 1/2 inches along the length of each. I have one design question and one technical question involving joinery.
1. Peter Tischler in his FW article for Jan/Feb 1995 recommends that the end rails be 16″ from each end on a leg and ral table. That would seem to put the legs too far away from each corner to my eye. What do other think is appropriate for the scale of the piece. Same question with respect to the side rails. I think 3 1/2 ” from the edges is about right. Comments please.
2. I would like to insert the legs (2 and 7/8″ thick at a 45 degree angle to the rails so that I can use curves mimicing the free form of the top. Are the mortises also offset or should the joint be square on at each corner?
By the way, I am filling the few voids in the tabletop with pewter sitting slightly proud of the surface. TIA
Edited 10/11/2007 7:15 pm ET by backroadpartner
Replies
Hello Backroadpartner
I am having difficultly understing your questions. Would it be possible to upload some simple sketches to illustrate your questions?
Darrell
Sorry about that. I do not have much draawing ability, but imagine a total table height of 29 inches. The top is two pieces of 2" thick slabs of Black Walnut glued togoether with free form edges running the long length. The width varies between 36" at the ends and 45" in between because of the free form nature of the slabs. The first issue I have are not with the table top; rather they are with the design of the supporting rails and legs. What I want advice about, considering that the top is 84" long, is what the distance between the ends of the table top and the rails should be and what the distance between the sides and the rails should be. I have seen an article, as mentioned, that suggests that the end rails should be 16" inboard of the ends of the table. That seems a bit off because the occupants at the sides would hit their legs on the table legs. I would thing that a 9" or less distance is a better proportion. Similarly, I think the long rails should be no more than 3 and 1/2 " inboard of the sides of the table.
The second issue I have concerns the joinery of the legs to the rails. Will it be better to make the legs 4" square at the top where they are mortised to the rails leaving an area that alllows removal of mass below to shape them at a 45 degree angle to the rails, or will it be better to shape the legs as a 45 degree to the rails at the top and have an offset mortice at the top of the legs?
Sorry for the slow reply. I have been getting things ready for a show - always a hectic time<!----><!----><!---->
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On the design part of your question I would suggest a mock-up with the actual parts so you can both visualize the design and check for leg clearance as well. This will probably involve some helpers to hold the parts in place for you.<!----><!---->
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I am sorry but I am having difficulty understanding the second part of you question concerning the joinery. Is there any photo of like joinery you could direct me to?<!----><!---->
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….Darrell<!----><!---->
For the visually impaired, I have made my own decisions with respect to the distances between the rails and the perimeter of the table top. They will be 6" from the table top at the long end and 3 1/2" along the sides. Enough said.As to the leg joinery, I will use leg pieces 3" x 6" and cut the top at a 45 degree angle on the inside faces of each leg and mortise each face so that they present facets perpendicular to the tenons of the rails. Only the square pegs to hold the tenons in place will require offset drilling. I can always let in gussets across the corners for additional bracing of the corner joints. The end result will be legs facing each corner below the rails at a 45 degree angle and I can cut the outside faces in such a manner as to mimic the freeform of the table top side edges. End of thread.
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