Frame and panel warped after painting, any thoughts?
I made a panel that’s made up of three frames and panels. (drawing attached)
I painted the panels before I put it together and then painted the whole shooting match again.
Both the primer and the topcoat are water based acrylics
I first painted the back (it won’t be seen so I just gave it a primer coat and then brushed two coats of top coat)
Then, I brush coated primer on the front, sanded after it dried and then sprayed two coats of topcoat.
I did a final cleanup and shot a third coat on the front last night.
When I checked on it this morning, I noticed that it’s warped. About 1/4″ over its 37″ length. Because it was thinned for spray, the paint was a little watery, but I didn’t expect this. Do you think it will flatten back out once the paint dries fully? Should I shoot another coat on the back to see if that balances it? Any other thoughts/tips anyone can think of?
Replies
the wonder of using water based
if the finish on the back is soluble(still) then you could recoat it and possbly some moisture content may make it. but if it is dried and cured then nothing will permeate it
you could also prhaps use a little heat to one side which may help pull it back in line as there is possibly still some moisture content there
ron
Warp
How thick + wide were the rails and stiles - and how were they joined ?
SA
couple of ways to skin that cat
Several things you can do. If you have already sealed all the surfaces (end grain too) You could try several things. Lay it flat apply weight and let is sit for several days and it will probably come back. Second, you could over bend the opposite direction. I've used this on a couple pieces before that gained a slight issue. this works for doors mounted in an opening that can be over bent (past flat the opposite direction) by an amount equal to the existing bend and leave it that way by clamping or any way possible (I used quickgrips and wooden blocks) and let that sit for a couple days and it generally will fix small warps. The final one is to put it out side on the ground (on a sunny day) face down towards the warp and check it (religously) ever 10 min and it will bend back the other way. This is the riskiest of the ones I've mentioned. Especially if you did not use QS for your rails as flatsawn will twist like a son of a gun. Good luck
Thanks bones. I've used the outside on the grass with the sun method with plywood. You're right, it's tricky. Too long and it just warps the other way.
By the way, what's QS!?! I don't think I've ever seen quartersawn poplar; Poplar is what I use for painted stuff. I've learned to settle for flat sawn and joint, wait, joint, wait and then joint again. Sometime a door goes crooked after its installed, but I've been generally lucky. For more noble species, I sometime see QS, but it seems rare as well.
The QS is there just look for it
Hey man the Quarter sawn is there just look for it. When you buy your boards flatsawn usually you will find the QS at edge of each board usually enough to get your rails and stiles. If its not QS it will be enough to be rift sawn and serve the same purpose. Rip the edges for rails & stiles and use the middle for panels. I do that with cherry all the time. Last load of cherry I bought some wide boards at 3$ a BF the edges were QS & riftsawn stuff perfect. Centers are fine for glued up panels. Heck of a lot cheaper that buying all QS at a premium. Here in PA they value their cherry. I bought some poplar 14" 15" across for 1.50 BF. Anyway good luck with the bend let us know if you get it fixed.
Cherry prices
"Here in PA they value their cherry. "
I wish I could buy "valued" Cherry at $3.50 in New Mexico. My AZ supplier (Woodworker's Source) wants $6.99, while my Texas supplier (McKinney) charges $5.50 (or $5.00 for 50BF or more).
Let me clarify a bit
I did not clarify properly. Here that want 6 and up a bf for cherry and I'm around some big places that sell some good stuff. However, I watched woodweb.com and http://www.searchtempest.com that searches craigslists by zip code and you will find loads for sell cheaper. I'd watch and save my money and you can catch a deal. The cherry I bought was considered number 3 common but it was clear as a bell on one face which is all I care about. Second, when i talked to the guy selling it, I offered to buy his whole load and he came down almost a 1 bf. I bought 500 BF but I saved for a year to buy it all at one time. I take a bit of each paycheck (with the spouses blessing of course) and put it away for either a tool buy in the spring, or a load of wood which is my only real addiction(besides her for the past 30 years). I've got a nice stack downstairs now to keep me going for a while. If you have a woodworking guild close join it and see if you can all go in together and order a large load ship it and split the cost! I know my brother who lives in oklahoma has bought from wall lumber in norh carolina and had is picked and shipped to him on several ocasions and not been dissapointed. They have a good deal on cherry right now. Good luck man!
As Patton would have said . . .
Tanks for the tips, Bones. ;-)
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