Replies

1. 
   rdasilva | Jan 23, 2009 05:25pm | #1

   Should work fine, just remember that the 10" Forrest Chop Master is a 7/64" kerf while standard full kerf tablesaw blades are 1/8" and thin-kerf are 3/32"... so you have another blade thickness to deal with (fence track tape adjustment, another zero clearance insert needed, etc.). Other than that, shouldn't be any problems.

2. 
   Knotscott | Jan 23, 2009 08:59pm | #2

   The Chopmaster is really optimized for use in a miter saw. It'll work in a TS but you're paying a premium for a task specific blade that's really intended to shine in another application. The added raker on the Chopmaster won't leave as fine of a cut as an all ATB or all Hi-ATB grind will. I'd consider going with the Forrest Duraline, or even the WWI if you want to stay within the Forrest offerings. I think the Infinity Ultrasmooth 010-080 with it's Hi-ATB grind and 5° hook angle is better suited for TS use....same goes for the Freud LU80 or LU85 blades. If you're considering the WWI, I'd also consider the Infinity 010-060.

   
   

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   Edited 1/23/2009 1:07 pm ET by Knotscott

3. 
   observer | Jan 23, 2009 09:59pm | #3

   I use a negative rake 80T SCMS Dimar blade on my tablesaw for precisely the reasons you describe and I have yet to discover a blade that does it better.

   I have a very similar negative rake 80T Dimar blade intended for cutting two sided laminates such as ply and melamine. It doesn't work for that purpose as well as the SCMS blade.

4. 
   forestgirl | Jan 24, 2009 06:03am | #4

   KJ, what kind of surface are you looking for on those cut ends?  If you want a smooth, polished surface, the Freud LU85 will give you that.  I use it for ends that will be exposed, such as on the slats of an adirondak chair. I don't know if they make one that's not coated, though.  IMHO, it's not a blade to use where you're wanting glue on that end grain, because of the polishing action of the blade.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
5. 
   Woodman41 | Jan 24, 2009 06:51pm | #5

   It's suitable but not optimal.

   Negative rake blades are used on miter and radial arm saws because they have the effect of pulling the work piece into the fence during cutting. On a tablesaw the geometry has the opposite effect, the negative rake pushes the work away from the blade.

   Therefore, it's not an issue of cut quality but how much work you are making for yourself, and potentially safety as well even though I think that may be overstated.

6. 
   kjhart0133 | Jan 27, 2009 12:52am | #6

   Thanks, all, for the useful advice.  I'm backing off on the Chopmaster and looking into some of the alternatives suggested here.

   Kevin H