I made a rather neat piece for my church 5 years ago. It is cherry. The finish is Minwax or Formby’s (I forget which) “tung oil” over boiled linseed oil.I waxed it rather heavily.
The roof leaked. The piece got wet several times. They horsed it around and the hide glue joints fell apart and they asked me to fix it. The finish is water spotted. Over the last few years it got a very nice dark colur.
I really do not want to sand it to bare wood. I rubbed it down with mineral spirits to get the wax off. This did not take off the water spots.
I really do not Know where to go from here. Left to my own, I might sand with 600 grit and either re – tung oil it or shellac it.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Frank
Replies
I'm almost certain the products you say you finished the job with in the first place are an oil based varnish Frank, but a thinned out one.
I suspect the water damage (white spots) was caused by water standing on the finish for some time causing it (the finish) to break down and whiten.
Without seeing the piece my instinct is to suggest the best option is to strip it and start the finishing process again. I know you are aware of the methylene chloride strippers because of your comments in the current danish oil thread.
This is the stuff I'd use to get all the old varnish off, using the type neutralised with mineral spirits, not water. One advantage of chemical strippers is that they don't change the colour of the underlying wood significantly, i.e., the colour change of your cherry item that's occurred over time will remain. You simply polish from new.
Sanding, scraping, etc., all the old finish off will expose new lighter coloured wood, and the result will probably be patchy. Whilst the colour will subsequently even out fairly quickly I understand you want to retain the existing colour as much as possible. The chemical stripper will almost certainly best achieve this.
Between stripping and refinishing with varnish again it wouldn't hurt to apply a single coat of a dewaxed shellac to act as a barrier coat. It's most tolerant of impurities underneath such as stripper residue not properly removed with mineral spirits.
If the shellac has a problem getting a grip it's easy to remove with a bit of alcohol allowing you to go back and properly neutralise any stripper residue with mineral spirits and a scrubbing brush/wire wool/nylon abrasive pad. This light abrasion shouldn't remove enough wood to expose fresh lighter coloured wood either. Slainte.
Yup, I agree with Richard. The water has gotten under the finish and is most likely in the wood. Are the spots white or black?
BTW, the Formby's is a thinned wiping varnish while the Minwax is an oil/varnish mixture. Basicly different products. The former is a film finish while the latter is a penetrating oil finish. Neither contain any real tung oil.
Richard,
Thanks as always for good advice. I will give it a try and see how it comes out.
Frank
Howie,
The spots are white. There are some black spots underneath where it sat in water.
Thanks,
Frank
Frank,
Before stripping the whole thing, try using 0000 steel wool and some mineral spirits on the white spots.
White spots usually mean the water is in the finish (black spots usually mean the water is in the wood). The idea is to use the wool to get down where the moisture can evaporate easily. Easy does it. Make sure all the wax is gone--it is just possible the spots are in the wax, or just beneath it--and abrade the surface just a bit. Then let it sit for at least a week.
If it doesn't work you've lost nothing but a little time. You can always strip it later.
Alan
Biscardi,
With white spots, start with mild and go to stronger..the most mild is oil (any kind, vegtable) and pot ash (ashes from the fireplace) ie. soap....rub the area in circles..the more you rub the stronger the soap gets...
Edited 7/26/2004 7:12 pm ET by BG
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled