Replies

1. 
   rob_ss | Dec 10, 2022 11:04pm | #1

   These are pretty simple machines so there are few points of failure.

   I start at the wall and check the outlet is working first.

   Check your device is rated for the voltage and frequency of the mains where you live- this is not a given with online purchases.

   If yes to both, then unplug the tool and remove the casing. Use a continuity meter to check if the neutral is connected to the motor. Check if the live is connected to the switch and check that the switch actually works (this is a very common fault on cheap tools) ultimately check if the live can feed through to the motor if the switch is on.
   If no, is there a fuse? Try at each connection point to see if you have continuity.
   If there is a motor capacitor, check it is not a short circuit.
   If you can access the motor commutator, check that there is a connection between this and the motor terminals.
   If all of these are true and you have a good circuit then the device should work. If not then the motor winding is probably bad and I'm afraid that really makes it landfill. Sorry.

2. 
   bradleyheathhays | Dec 11, 2022 12:13am | #2

   That's an amazingly thorough answer. Thank you!

3. 
   bradleyheathhays | Dec 11, 2022 02:24am | #3

   I've checked continuity in the power cord all the way up to the part I'm holding, which is the trigger switch itself with the power cord input leading in from above. Which parts should I get the probes on when I'm working the switch and testing for continuity?

   
4. 
   bradleyheathhays | Dec 14, 2022 10:22pm | #4

   After this last round of testing I'm guessing this switch is actually working like it should. The black and blue wires share the same terminal. When the switch is off the left white and black wires show no connectivity, but when on they do. Since this is reaching the edge of my electrical / motor construction experience I'm thinking I'd be better off just getting another one rather than having to be hand held through more testing.